1994 Villarica “La Nobleza” Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile ($8.99)

Chile’s winegrowing regions offer some bargains, especially for claret-like Cabernet Sauvignons. Villarica’s “La Nobleza” Cabernet from the Colchagua Valley south of Santiago is a case in point. Deep ruby, with smooth tannins and ripe but not jam-like fruit, it has a modest price that belies its understated grace. A cut above most Chilean wines, and one that would please a good many tastes.