Tail of a Whale and Other Humpback Tales

More than half the humpback whales in the North Pacific congregate in the warm waters around Hawaii between December and March every year to give birth to their young. Passengers can see some of them over the rail of American Hawaii Cruises’ Independence. The ship brings experts from the Pacific Whale Foundation and the University of Hawaii aboard to present lectures and slide shows and supervise whale-watch excursions.

Several other whale-watching boats go out from the old whaling town of Lahaina on the island of Maui for two to 2 1/2 hours for about $50 a person. One of the vessels, the 70-foot Spirit of Windjammer, is a three-masted schooner similar to the whaling ships of earlier days, and carries a hydro-phone system that lets you listen to the songs of the whales as they communicate with each other under water.

A cruise aboard the Independence is a wonderful way to get to know old Hawaii. After the cruise line was acquired by Delta Queen Steamboat Co. in 1993, both Delta Queen and American Hawaii were merged under parent corporation American Classic Voyages.

The Independence is the only large ocean-going cruise ship that sails under the U.S. flag. Built in 1951 in Quincy, Mass., the 30,090-ton vessel began as a transatlantic liner for American Export Lines of New York and carried such luminaries as President Harry S. Truman, Walt Disney, Alfred Hitchcock, Rita Hayworth and Ernest Hemingway in the 1950s.

A massive renovation in 1994 brought new life and spirit to the Independence by emphasizing traditional Hawaiian culture and crafts. Lessons in hula dancing, ukulele playing and lei-making are held aboard daily. A kumu or storyteller is aboard every cruise to teach traditional customs. The Bishop Museum of Honolulu helped set up a floating museum exhibit of Hawaii in the ship’s Kama’aina Lounge with historic photographs, artifacts and reproductions of antique island furniture.

When we were aboard in January, the lounge was being readied for a wedding held aboard before sailing time. A couple gets married on almost every cruise, according to guest relations manager Linda Paavola. A wedding package that includes an official to perform the ceremony, Hawaiian music, flower leis for the bride and groom, a photo album with 24 wedding photographs, champagne and wedding cake is offered for $595.

The Independence carries 805 passengers, based on two to a cabin, with more than 300 additional upper berths to handle families. Children from 2 to 17 who share a cabin with two full-fare adults travel for $195 apiece for the entire cruise. Children under 2 travel free.

Per person, double occupancy, cruise-only prices range from $1,145 for a budget cabin to $3,195 for a large suite on the Boat Deck. The budget cabins are extremely small with upper and lower berths and no windows or portholes, and could be recommended only for agile and non-fussy passengers.

On the other hand, the newly installed solarium suites on the Bridge Deck ($2,695 per person, double occupancy) are bright, airy and spacious, with a romantic skylight overhead. All the cabins on board are decorated with Hawaiian quilts and floral fabrics.

In the lobby a brightly feathered macaw squawks a greeting, and fresh orchids are blooming everywhere. The carpeting in the ship’s corridors carries a pattern of swimming whales; to walk forward on the ship, follow the the whales.

The food on board emphasizes the fresh produce and fish of Hawaii, as well as Pacific Rim cuisine. The innovative Ohana Buffet offers make-your-own-sandwich platters, a deli, a pizzeria, and stations for hot and cold dishes.

Optional shore excursions are offered on each island, starting at $15 for adults, $10 for children, for a walking tour of historic Kailua village in Kona or a motor-coach tour of Pearl Harbor and a visit to the Arizona Memorial. Golfers can book a confirmed tee time at any of 22 Hawaii courses with green fees from $80 to $145.

Snorkeling, kayaking, bicycling, four-wheel-drive tours and helicopter overflights are available. You can also book one of two different packages of shore excursions, one half-day tour each day, at a price lower than the total of the individual tours.

The entertainment aboard is provided by the Ray Kennedy Entertainers who offer both Broadway and a rock ‘n’ roll production musicals. A special Hawaiian show at sailing time features singers, hula dancers and fire dancers, and a children’s traditional hula school comes aboard in Hilo to perform.

The Independence sails every Saturday evening year-round from Aloha Tower in Honolulu, calling at Nawiliwili, Kauai, on Monday; Kahului, Maui, on Tuesday and overnighting until Wednesday; at Hilo, Big Island, on Thursday; and Kona, Big Island, on Friday.

In addition to the whale-watching cruises through the end of March, the Independence offers Big Band cruises April 5 and 12, Aug. 23 and Dec. 6 and 13, with gentlemen hosts on board to dance with the ladies. The sailings of Sept. 13, 20 and 27, and Oct. 4 and 11 coincide with the annual Aloha Festivals on each island. In summer, a staff of youth counselors is on board with supervised activities for ages 5 through 12.

To get a free color brochure from American Hawaii Cruises, see a travel agent or call (800) 765-7000.

Slater and Basch travel as guests of the cruise lines. Cruise Views appears the first and third week of every month.