1995 Green & Red Vineyard Zinfandel “Chiles Mill Vineyards,” Napa Valley ($17)

The latest release from the Napa Valley cult winery Green & Red Vineyard is a vibrant, full-bodied Zinfandel, mostly from 25-year-old hillside vines. Redolent of sweet dark berries and dark pepper, the Chiles Mill Zin is a lush, deep red laced with ripe tannins. This is a wine meant for food--a concept California winemakers are just beginning to grasp, but one that owner-winemaker Jay Heminway embraced from the start. A special bottling of his Zinfandel has been the house red at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse for the last three years.