‘Do the Right Thing

How do you find a braider? Most people rely on word-of-mouth, or ask someone whose braids they admire. Most braiders operate out of their homes, because working in a California salon requires a cosmetology license, which in turn requires 1,600 hours of training. JoAnne Cornwell, chairwoman of the Africana Studies department at San Diego State University, hopes to change that, arguing that most accredited cosmetology schools focus on mainstream hairstyles. Her federal suit, filed recently on behalf of the Washington D.C.-based American Hair Braiders and Natural Haircare Assn. against the state Board of Cosmetology and Barbering, would exempt braiders from licensing requirements. Attempts to achieve the same goal via the state Legislature have died in committee.

Meanwhile, author Lonnice Brittenum Bonner offers these tips when choosing a freelance braider:

* If you’re going on someone’s recommendation, find out as much from her as you can. “Ask her if she had to wait, how much it cost, and did the stylist pull the braids too tight?”

* Establish the braider’s level of expertise; intricate styles and extensions require more experience. “See if it matches what you’re looking for.”

* Request a consultation with the stylist. “Ask yourself, ‘Would I want to spend a lot of time with this person?’ If you’re at their home, get a glimpse into the person’s life and see if this is something they’re taking seriously. Do they have a place set aside to do the work? Are there kids running around? It depends on what your comfort level is. Some people are OK with all that going on. But keep in mind that kids, phone calls and such can add on to the time.”

* Does the stylist have fixed prices? Does she charge for a consultation? Find out up front.