1995 Ritratti Pinot Grigio, Trentino ($12.99)

I’d never been much of a fan of Pinot Grigio until I tasted this example from the Trentino area of northern Italy. Finally, a Pinot Grigio with some character and oomph--and at a price you can’t beat. Its scent is something like green apple skins and ripe Muscat. This wine is not only remarkably concentrated but fresh and vivacious. A great warm-weather wine to have on hand already chilled for an impromptu aperitif.