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Cooked Vegetable Dishes--the Un-Salad (VEGETARIAN)

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Simmons is the author of "Fresh & Fast" (Chapters Publishing, 1996)

In Morocco and other countries along the Mediterranean rim, cooked vegetable dishes are often served cold or at room temperature and are called salads.

The following “salad” of roasted tomatoes and zucchini with garbanzo beans was inspired by a recent visit to Morocco. To most Americans, this recipe will appear very un-salad-like. I think of it more as a cross between a vegetable dip and a sandwich spread.

To serve as an appetizer, spoon the salad onto small pieces of crusty bread. In Morocco, instead of using a spoon, torn chunks of bread are used to scoop up the salad.

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I roasted the tomatoes for this recipe because spring tomatoes are not especially flavorful and the roasting seems to concentrate the flavors and help them along. Although oven roasting takes time, I justify it by calling it unattended cooking time. Besides, the result is so good, it more than compensates for the time required. This dish also benefits from being made a day or two ahead. Use either plum tomatoes or firm, ripe, round tomatoes and a full-bodied fruity olive oil.

For dessert, serve a seasonal fresh fruit such as ripe pears, sliced strawberries, kiwi or an assortment of seedless grapes.

ROASTED TOMATO AND ZUCCHINI SALAD

2 pounds tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/2-inch wedges

1 large sweet onion, cut into thin wedges

2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to taste

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups 1/2-inch diced zucchini

1 (19-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained, rinsed and mashed slightly with fork

1/2 cup torn fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup kalamata olives, pitted (optional)

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or more to taste

Combine tomatoes, onion, garlic and olive oil in 14x10-inch or larger roasting pan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast at 450 degrees 30 minutes. Turn vegetables with spatula and roast until lightly browned, about 25 minutes.

Add zucchini and garbanzo beans and stir to combine. Roast until zucchini is tender, 10 to 15 minutes more. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature.

Spoon mixture into large bowl. Add basil, olives and vinegar and additional salt, pepper and olive oil to taste. Serve chilled or at room temperature as appetizer or vegetable side dish.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings:

274 calories; 71 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 35 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 3.53 grams fiber.

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PAN-GRILLED PORTABELLO MUSHROOMS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 large portabello mushrooms, wiped clean, stems removed

1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

2 cloves garlic

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Portabello mushrooms have large caps that can grow up to five or more inches across and a deep, rich mushroom flavor. They appear to be very exotic, but are actually plain white or agaricus mushrooms that have been allowed to mature and grow much, much larger.

Heat oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, smooth side down. Reduce heat and cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

Finely chop parsley and garlic together. Sprinkle evenly over mushrooms. Add salt and pepper to taste. Turn mushrooms over and cook 5 minutes more.

4 servings. Each serving:

84 calories; 79 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.71 gram fiber.

BRAISED GREENS WITH RAISINS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

1 head (about 1 pound) escarole, washed, trimmed, cut into 1-inch strips

1/4 cup raisins

Salt

1/2 lemon, cut into thin wedges

Combine olive oil and garlic in medium skillet and heat over medium-low heat until garlic begins to sizzle. Add escarole and raisins and toss to combine. Cover tightly and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until escarole is very tender, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Spoon into serving dish. Garnish with lemon wedges.

4 servings. Each serving:

114 calories; 86 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.74 gram fiber.

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