Sauce for Bivalves

American oysters hate Chardonnay, or so say the judges at the recent seventh annual Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition. Though a steely Chardonnay-based Chablis is the oyster wine of choice in France, only one of the top 10 wines in this year’s competition was a Chardonnay, and even it was a blend.

Which wines become an oyster most? Generally speaking, cheap wines (more than half retail for less than $10) made from under-appreciated grapes (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chenin Blanc) that tend to be high in acidity (all have total acidity of more than six-tenths of a percent).

This year’s Top 10, in alphabetical order: 1996 Buena Vista Carneros Sauvignon Blanc ($8.50), 1996 Chateau Souverain Sauvignon Blanc ($8.50), 1996 Covey Run Vintners Fume Blanc ($9), 1996 Dry Creek Vineyard Chenin Blanc ($8), 1996 Erath Vineyards Pinot Gris ($14), 1996 Guenoc Sauvignon Blanc ($13.50), 1996 Hedges Cellars Fume-Chardonnay ($7), 1996 Kendall-Jackson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc ($11), 1996 Kenwood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc ($11) and 1996 Washington Hills Cellars Chenin Blanc ($5.99).