Fried Chicken, Carolina Style

The Fourth of July is the perfect time to indulge in the traditional Southern holiday specialties: fried chicken and fruit pie.

My friend Lulu Mims came from North Carolina with a treasure chest of culinary know-how, and her fried chicken is still the best I’ve had. As she has shown me several times, the key is controlling the heat of the oil--not so hot that it burns the flour, not so low that the chicken grabs a lot of grease. The adjustment is ongoing, and when the frying is done, there’s almost as much oil in the skillet as there was at the start.

With coleslaw, corn bread or crusty bread, cucumber slices, a bowl of cherry tomatoes, raspberry-rhubarb pie and a plate of strawberries, it’s the ideal Fourth of July meal.

LULU’S FRIED CHICKEN

2 (2 1/2-pound) chickens, cut into eighths, fat trimmed

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon crushed sage

3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt

1 cup flour

Canola oil

Rinse chicken. Soak 5 minutes in bowl of cold water mixed with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Drain, return chicken to empty bowl and season with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Let rest 10 minutes.

Combine remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, sage, seasoned salt and flour in plastic food bag and shake to mix.

Pour oil 1/4-inch deep in 12-inch cast-iron or heavy skillet and heat over medium-high heat. (Note: Drop of water in oil will spatter when oil is hot enough.)

Shake chicken pieces in batches in plastic bag to coat with flour mixture. Discard excess flour.

Carefully place coated pieces in skillet, adding as many as possible without overcrowding. When oil resumes simmering, about 2 minutes, cover skillet and fry until underside is deep brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Turn chicken and continue to fry, covered, until second side is also browned, 8 to 10 minutes. (Note: Larger pieces will take longer to cook.)

As chicken pieces are done, transfer to serving platter lined with double thickness of paper towels. As space is available in skillet, add remaining chicken, frying in same manner.

Serve immediately or cool and refrigerate overnight, wrapped airtight. If refrigerated, let chicken rest at room temperature for about 20 minutes before serving.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings:

382 calories; 330 mg sodium; 108 mg cholesterol; 24 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 28 grams protein; 0.06 gram fiber.

RHUBARB-RASPBERRY PIE

Cut-up strawberries may be substituted for the raspberries. Reducing the temperature only from 450 to 425 for the last 45 minutes of cooking time may seem unusual, but it works. Serve the pie warm with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt if desired.

2 1/4 pounds rhubarb

1 3/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons sugar

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons water

1/4 teaspoon allspice

Pinch salt

2 cups raspberries

Pastry for 9-inch double-crust deep-dish pie

1 1/2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon whipping cream or milk

2 teaspoons sugar

Split rhubarb lengthwise and cut into 1/3-inch-thick pieces to make about 8 1/2 cups.

Combine rhubarb, 1 3/4 cups sugar, tapioca, vanilla, water, allspice and salt in large bowl and toss until rhubarb is well coated. Let rest at room temperature 15 minutes. Add raspberries and gently toss.

Divide dough in half and roll out both halves. Center 1 crust in pie plate and gently press in place. Spoon filling into crust, mounding it slightly in center. Dot surface with small bits of butter. Top with second crust.

Trim edges of both crusts with kitchen shears to 1/2-inch overhang. Pinch edges together with floured fingers and fold over to seal tightly. Use fork tines or pinch with fingers to form decorative edge. Make several slashes in top crust with sharp knife to allow steam to escape while baking.

Lightly brush crust with cream or milk. Sprinkle with remaining 2 teaspoons sugar. Place pie plate on baking sheet to catch juices.

Bake at 450 degrees 10 minutes, then reduce temperature to 425 degrees. Bake until top is well browned and juices bubbling, 45 to 50 minutes.

Let pie cool at least 2 hours before serving. (Note: Pie can be made 1 day ahead, cooled completely and refrigerated.) Serve pie warm. If chilled, bake, uncovered, at 300 degrees 12 to 15 minutes.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings:

436 calories; 132 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 73 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.78 grams fiber.

* Glasses from Freehand, Los Angeles.