Steep Coastal Canyon Digs Deep Into the Past

Inspiring redwoods, a sandy beach and a trail into Big Sur history are some of the attractions of Limekiln State Park. The park, one of California’s newest, opened in September 1995 after the state acquired a privately held campground and 716 acres of land in southernmost Big Sur.

The isolated coastal canyon was named for its 1870s to 1880s limekiln operations. Quarried limestone was smelted in four huge wood-fired kilns. The product--powdered lime--was packed into barrels that were then attached to cable strung from the canyon wall down to the beach and about 50 yards out into the Pacific Ocean. Schooners slipped into tiny Rockland Cove, as the landing was known, and loaded the lime. The lime, a primary ingredient in cement, was used to construct buildings in Monterey and San Francisco.

The industry was hard on the woods. Surrounding redwoods were chopped down to fuel the limekiln and to make barrels to store the lime.

Much of Limekiln Canyon, however, escaped harm from this early industry and, after a quiet century, nature has healed most of Limekiln Canyon’s wounds. Today, the canyon shelters some of the oldest, healthiest, largest and southernmost redwoods in Monterey County. Some scientists speculate that these redwoods, along with those in other nearby steep canyons, may prove to be a special subspecies or variety of redwood that differs slightly from more northerly stands.

Not everyone thinks these southern redwoods are unique. In 1984, a private landowner wanted to log the redwoods along the west fork of Limekiln Creek. Thanks to conservationists from around the state and the local Big Sur Land Trust, the trees were spared, and their habitat preserved in the public domain.

Limekiln Canyon is one of the Pacific Coast’s steepest coastal canyons; it rises from sea level to more than 5,000 feet in elevation in about 3 1/2 miles. This abrupt gradient means a tremendous diversity of flora. Botanists have identified 12 different plant communities within the canyon.

When the California Department of Parks and Recreation acquired Limekiln Canyon, it made some facilities improvements but not many. The park’s plumbing system remains problematic, and there is no potable water. Campsites are quite minimal, definitely not of the quality of those grand northern redwood park campgrounds designed by landscape architects.

Still, the park is very much undiscovered, and its family atmosphere and tranquil redwoods more than make up for any lack of facilities. The state park’s campground and small camp store is managed by California Land Management, a private concessionaire.

Hiking is limited to the half-mile-long trail leading to the limekilns.

Directions to trail head: From San Luis Obispo, follow California 1 about 90 miles north to the signed turnoff for Limekiln State Park. The park is about 40 miles north of Hearst Castle and 55 miles south of Carmel.

The turnoff is on the inland side of the highway, just south of the south end of the Limekiln Canyon bridge. Day-use parking is located just past the entry kiosk.

The hike: Walk through the campground to the first of three bridges and join the signed trail. Amble creek-side to the next bridge, where you’ll spot a signed, right-forking side trail that leads an eighth-mile to a pretty little waterfall. (On a hike earlier this month, I noticed that signs advising this trail was closed for repair did not seem to discourage many hikers from visiting the waterfall. Get a trails update from park staff.)

The path continues among the tall redwoods and within sight of some lovely pools and cascades. After crossing a third bridge, the path ends at the limekilns. Four towering kilns, partially engulfed by the recovering redwood forest, stand as peculiar monuments to a long-gone industry.

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Limekiln Trail

WHERE: Limekiln State Park.

DISTANCE: 1 mile round trip.

TERRAIN: Steep, redwood-lined canyon.

HIGHLIGHTS: Redwood groves, historic limekilns.

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: Easy.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Limekiln State Park, 63025, Highway 1, Big Sur, CA 93920; tel. (408) 667-2403. Big Sur Visitor Information Station: tel. (408) 667-2315.