Spain’s African Isles

My globe-trotting, Belgian photographer friend phoned me in Boston and said, “Set your sails to 4 degrees north of the Tropic of Cancer, west of the Greenwich Meridian. It’s on the 28th parallel, the same latitude as Florida. I’ll be waiting for you on my boat at the marina in Santa Cruz. Got the biggest marlin in the world out there.”

Well, why not? Turns out a trip to the Canary Islands--although a hefty 14 flying hours from the West Coast to Madrid to the largest Canary Island of Tenerife--can be invitingly inexpensive. My package deal, which I arranged through a New York agency after my friend’s call, gave me six nights and breakfasts in a hotel in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, plus charter air from New York, for about $750. I used the Spanish-Moroccan-style Hotel Mencey as home base for exploring the city of Santa Cruz, nearby seaside villages and trips to three other islands in the Canary archipelago--Lanzarote, Gomera and Gran Canaria.

The exploration took me to within 67 miles of the northwest coast of Africa. On our charter flight out of New York, I checked the map, which showed 13 islands (seven inhabited) divided into two provinces. There’s the grouping of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, which includes the western islands of La Palma, Tenerife, Gomera and Hierro, and the province of Las Palmas with the eastern islands of Gran Canaria, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. They were all born of volcanoes, although their present-day landscapes range from lava desert to forest, from sand dunes to old towns with colonial centers.

My first question upon arrival at the airport in Tenerife was to ask my sailing friend, “So where are all the canaries? Canary islanders must tire of this question. The islands got their name, I learned, because early explorers found packs of large wild dogs--dogs as in canine (canis in Latin), hence the canaria islands.

Here was my promised land of eternal spring. A blissful 80 degrees, no humidity, no bugs. And wow! Tenerife mountains with . . . “Oh my god!” nerve-racking roads causing “shut your eyes” and “don’t look down” warnings as my friend and I drove along cliffs, peered down on voluptuous terraced valleys and up to volcanoes rising from the ocean like fantasy castles.

Since I was still thawing out from winter hibernation (it was the April off-season in the Canaries), the bright sight of fire-red poinsettia trees lining the roadsides, birds of paradise in every garden and banana plantations took some adjusting. But not much.

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On this exploratory maiden voyage I would learn a bit more about Christopher Columbus than I recall from school. Legend has it that his mistress lived on the island of Gomera, a charming and secluded spot to rest and prepare for his expeditions.

Spain conquered the islands during the years from 1478 to 1496--lest we forget wars were conducted gradually 500 years ago--and they remain autonomous communities of Spain today. Only a century ago, arriving by clipper ship, the British vacationed here for three to six months at a stretch, a practice that should be resumed. Clearly some today are in a position to do this, judging from the ocean-worthy sailboats and moneyed yachts I saw in the marinas. Sterns bore labels from all over the world, including North and South America. My boat-dwelling friend from Belgium is another regular commuter to the archipelago.

In fact, the Canaries have long been a holiday retreat of Europeans, predominantly Germans. The British are second, followed in volume by tourists from Sweden, the Netherlands and Finland, Switzerland and France. The brochure I clutched had no statistics on visitors from the U.S.

Unpacking at the Hotel Mencey, I made the island of Tenerife my base camp. My plan was to explore, first, Tenerife, then the other islands by day-tripping.

On Tenerife, volcanic lava has produced sparkling jet black beaches framing the ocean in museum-quality poses. Alternating golden beaches reveal cozy lagoons. It’s the largest of the Canaries, with the highest mountain peak in all Spain: spectacular, 12,000-foot Mt. Teide. This dormant volcanic peak is snowcapped and triangular like a pyramid, and you’ll never get over it. We rented a car and drove through Mt. Teide National Park, which includes Mt. Teide surrounded by a wild volcanic landscape of weathered mineral-tinted rocks, ash beds and lava flows. Mountains (stop and view), more mountains, more views, more mountains, more astonishing views, dizzying but thrilling.

The city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the provincial capital, has tidy streets that existed in the 16th century when only 1,000 people lived here in relative isolation. Today more than 200,000 inhabitants enjoy the flower-lined plazas, outdoor cafes and modern city lifestyle. The first airport opened in 1930, and a second was built in 1978. There are no trains, just buses.

The Hotel Mencey in downtown Santa Cruz came as part of my travel package, and it turned out to be a perfect site. Located in a quiet residential area, it had European style and was freshly restored--fancy, yet friendly. Minutes from the front door, I walked into a beautiful botanical garden park of sculpture, fountains and foliage-covered walkways. On the corner of the same block was a small casino, as convenient as a 7-Eleven.

One afternoon we drove out of the city about 20 miles to see a more historic village, La Orotava, where we found a bakery and tiny cafe with a courtyard in the old part of the city. Frequented by locals, the Taoro Confiteria y Cafe on Calle Leon, was a delicious spot for lunch and rest. As I people-watched from a bench in a nearby park, it seemed clear that the pace of life here is markedly slower than “U.S. time,” with ritual midday shutdowns and late-night dining habits. Cathedrals are everywhere, with crosses like antennas tuned to heaven. Come night, religion fades, and the neon flashing from clubs and casinos in the city is hot.

On another day we sailed to Lanzarote, the Canary Island--150 nautical miles from Tenerife--that lies closest to the African coast. On this fourth largest island, one quickly learns the basics of volcanology. The first eruptions lasted for six years from 1730 to 1736. In Timanfaya National Park, where the Fire Mountains are located, the last big blowout occurred in 1824. But it may as well have been yesterday. Seeing the results is a near hallucinatory experience.

Renting a car, we drove to the Fire Mountains, and lunched at the mountaintop El Diablo restaurant. As you walk to the entrance, the volcanic heat can be felt through the soles of your shoes. Geysers of boiling water shoot out from holes dug to entertain tourists. The scary geothermal energy is put to practical use: The restaurant steaks were cooked over an enormous grill using natural volcanic heat.

I was told that in the days of attacks on the island by pirates, the volcanic tunnels of Lanzarote served as hiding places for the natives. One amazingly weird cave is the Auditorio Jaime del Agua, which has been transformed into an enormous auditorium seating 600 for theatrical productions.

Living a life in lava is the ultimate in human adaptation. Driving around, we saw how farmers have dug holes down through the lava to plant grapevines. Since it rarely rains, the victory in this man-versus-nature battle is achieved with the help of the volcanic gravel that retains a high level of humidity after irrigation.

I certainly didn’t expect to be riding camels in the Canaries, but we did. We kept on driving and ran across camels for rent for riding on rolling hills of lava. By the sea, I caught a glimpse of the whitewashed coastal holiday home of Spain’s King Juan Carlos I and Queen Sofia. Modest by royal standards, the property was formerly owned by King Hussein of Jordan. I was told that VIPs such as former Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev and his wife also vacation on Lanzarote.

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Up at the crack of dawn at base camp in the city of Santa Cruz, we hydrofoiled from Tenerife to the island of Gomera, about 50 nautical miles, on a huge ferry. We spent the day there, poking further into the myths and legends about Beatriz de Bobadilla, a lady reputed to be of such incredible beauty that she steered Columbus off his course before he embarked upon his voyage to the New World. I found this island more like a nature preserve than a jet-setting playground.

Totally non-touristy, the whole island is connected by one road. If you’re looking for peace and quiet and a place to gather your wits, this is the answer. Beauty, beauty everywhere and not a place to worry. The sheer cliffs of the coast are met by pounding surf, and the higher you climb, the better it gets. You’re rewarded with views of the tops of whitewashed villages and terraced valleys and out across the sea to Mt. Teide. We entered this sanctuary of sorts via the tiny port of San Sebastian where the Church of the Ascension, built in the 1400s, still stands.

Often you don’t know what you’re looking for until you actually see it. This was the case when I discovered the Parador de San Sebastian de la Gomera. This very old, small mansion, restored to perfection, offers relative privacy, with a swimming pool where the few guests I saw around the pool were absorbed in books.

There’s a chain of 85 state-owned paradores in Spain, including the Canary Islands, to provide accommodations in areas that would not be profitable for private business. They make use of old palaces, convents and castles--my cup of tea for, in this case, about $160 a night for two. This is to be my hideaway when I return.

At last we set sail for the fourth island on my agenda, Gran Canaria, which has the most important port in the Canaries. Puerto de la Luz in the provincial capital--Las Palmas de Gran Canaria--is packed with enormous oil tankers and fishing fleets from all over the world, plus cruise ships and private vessels from Europe and the Americas.

Every October since 1595 a festival has been celebrated here marking the date of the Canarian naval victory over England’s Sir Francis Drake. Also, the international Atlantic Regatta connecting Gran Canaria with Barbados and Santa Lucia leaves from here the last week of November.

Hellbent on the trail of Christopher Columbus, we went to the port area of Las Palmas. In the old quarter of Vegueta we stepped into his house, the Casa de Colon, a museum/exhibition hall with a collection of objects and documents.

A visit to the Hostelry of Cruz de Tejeda in the mountains to the northeast provided a sampling of local cuisine in a good stew made of sausage and chickpeas. Cheese made in the town of Santa Maria, called queso de flor, had a unique flavor from its origins in ewe’s milk and the flowers of the wild thistle. We also sampled a species of fish called vieja, unique to this part of the Atlantic, which is stewed and served with a mayonnaise-type sauce and tastes like lobster. Everywhere, potatoes are served baked with a coarse salt covering the skins.

In coastal areas, the cliffs are honeycombed with hotels and apartments. In the Puerto de Mogan marina I saw boats from Gibraltar to Sydney. We found a wonderful restaurant, the Club del Mar, serving delicious parrot fish, fried squid, salad with goat cheese and those “wrinkled potatoes” again, plus vanilla ice cream with ground almonds and palm-tree honey.

Need I say more? Just go.

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GUIDEBOOK

Canaries Caper

Getting there: For the fewest stops to Tenerife, take US Airways (stops in Philadelphia) or Continental (changes in Newark) to Madrid, then fly nonstop on Iberia to Tenerife. Or fly nonstop to London, then take Iberia to Madrid or Barcelona, and on to Tenerife. Round-trip fares begin at about $980, purchased from Iberia.

Packagers, agencies: Among those generally thought to be a good value: Spanish Heritage Holidays (116-47 Queens Blvd., Forest Hills, NY 11375; telephone [800] 456-5050), which I used, has Canary Island packages.

Adventure Center (1311 63rd St., Suite 200, Emeryville, CA 94608; tel. [800] 227-8747, fax [510] 654-4200) has a Canary Islands tour.

Multi-Tours, Inc., 21704 Northern Boulevard, Bayside, NY 11361; tel. (800) 307-8687, fax (718) 229-7467).

Where to stay: Hotel Mencey (Jose Naveiras, No. 38, Santa Cruz de Tenerife; contact ITT-Sheraton [800] 325-3589), a four-story Spanish Moroccan-style hotel, surrounded by tropical gardens, that feels much smaller than its 286 rooms. Two excellent restaurants, low-key lounge, quiet outdoor pool area. 1998 room rates: single, about $160; double, about $200.

The Parador of San Sebastian of La Gomera (on Gomera; for information on Spanish paradores, contact Marketing Ahead, 433 Fifth Ave., New York, NY; tel. [800] 223-1356). Former private estate, now government-operated parador; 16 elegant rooms. I visited two suites but did not stay. Rates: $162, double occupancy, including breakfast.

For more information: Tourist Office of Spain, 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 956, Beverly Hills, CA 90211; tel. (213) 658-7188, fax (213) 658-1061.

M.S.H.