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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Here’s a trend that’s easy to embrace: day spas. In the last six years, the number of these urban retreats has mushroomed from 30 to 600, according to the International Spa & Fitness Assn. in Alexandria, Va.

Trend-watchers say day spas are booming because stressed-out, overwhelmed boomers need spa soothing but don’t have the time to travel to a traditional resort spa for more than 12 hours of pampering.

The day spa of the ‘90s is more than a glorified beauty parlor with overpriced body treatments. While some salons have spa pretentions, most have higher aspirations, defining themselves as “quiet salons” where relaxation is the priority and services go beyond massage, facials, manicures, waxing and hairstyling to include hydrotherapy and newfangled body treatments.

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All these hands-on services don’t come cheap, so getting what you want out of your day trip requires a little homework. There’s a spa for every type--the lady who lunches (think Estee Lauder Spa at Neiman Marcus), the New Age follower (meditate on Murad 365), and the no-frills seeker who doesn’t mind same-sex nudity around the alkaline pool (Beverly Hot Springs).

“Wellness” is the goal at Murad 365 in El Segundo, according to owner and dermatologist Howard Murad. “Society is very isolating so we wanted to create an environment that offers a sense of intimacy--one that allows you to talk and ask questions.” Although an acupuncturist, nutritionist, and yoga instructor are on staff, facials are the most popular treatment--not surprising given that Murad was one of the first physicians to market glycolic acid for common skin concerns.

For spa veteran Vera Brown, who owns Vera’s Retreat in the Glen in Los Angeles, the secret of the successful day spa is simple. “Instead of going one place for a facial, another for a massage, and another for a manicure, it’s one-stop shopping. And the point is to pamper the client with loving hands.”

At 77, Brown has had many years to perfect her spa technique. “I remember my first facial like it was yesterday,” she says. “I was an 18-year-old dental assistant and had saved my money for four months. But when I arrived at I. Magnin for my appointment, the receptionist said, ‘Tut tut, my dear. With your skin, you’ll need to come in at least once a week.’ And I was heartbroken! I couldn’t enjoy the facial that followed because I knew I couldn’t afford regular visits.” She vowed to democratize the beauty-treatment business. Even today, any employee of Vera’s who makes blanket statements about mandatory facials is fired, says the boss.

Since most of the clients at Glen Ivy Hot Springs in Corona are eventually smeared in red-clay mud, the spa emphasizes “inner beauty,” says president John Gray. At this century-old oasis about an hour south of L.A., day trippers soak in the outdoor mineral baths, coat themselves in mud, sunbathe till their shells crack, and then shower down for a swim in one of several pools. “Eighty percent of our clients are female,” says Gray, “and at the center of the demographic is a 39-year-old married working woman.” The remark he overhears most frequently is, “Why didn’t I do this before?”

Money, for one thing. It’s hard to justify spending $70 on an intangible like massage, although it’s designed to stimulate circulation, dilate blood vessels, and relax tense muscles. Studies show that loving touching can improve health, writes Diane Ackerman in “A Natural History of the Senses.”

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Rich or poor, you can get the most out of your spa day by keeping focused on the goal. First, find a spa close to home. There’s nothing relaxing about sitting in traffic. Maximize relaxation time by arriving at least 15 minutes early so that you can check in, shower, change into your robe and slippers, and have a seat in the waiting area without feeling rushed.

Most body treatments cost about a dollar a minute, a fair price for rubbing salt on a stranger or kneading her muscles. But try to steer clear of baths and other services that contain lots of relaxing “down time,” when the technician disappears for 20 minutes. After all, you can sit in a tub at home for free.

After asking about any injured areas, a good massage therapist should proceed in silence. If he or she continues with, “So, what do you do for a living?” you’ve got a talker. Do not engage. Strategies include a courteous “I’m so tired I can’t talk” and (for the more passive client) lots of shrugs and “Hmms.” To facialists who begin the treatment by asking, “What are you using on your skin?” remember that sale of cleansers and creams can account for up to 50% of a day spa’s profit.

Melissa Yamaguchi, co-owner of Yamaguchi Salon & Coastal Day Spa in Ventura, tries to accommodate her “vigilante consumers.” These clients aren’t afraid to ask for a discount (“If I buy five facials, can I get the sixth one free?”) or for substitutions on packages (“Can I swap my scalp treatment for a lip and bikini wax?”).

As for that old bugaboo, tipping, God bless those who can afford to hand out the cash. Otherwise, says Yamaguchi, worrying about tips can sabotage the peaceful spa experience. “Our staffers don’t live on tips, they live on their service income,” she says. “Your tip is if they return.”

Here is a sampling of Southern California day spas. All you have to lose is your stress (OK, and a few bucks).

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Estee Lauder Day Spa at Neiman Marcus: It may be in the basement, but this newest spa in the Lauder family is sumptuously decorated with curved beige-leather chairs, gold-tasseled lockers, and silk-taffeta curtains. Walls are adorned with goldleaf-framed photos of Lauder girl Elizabeth Hurley with a towel wrapped around her head. Treatments are booked almost two weeks in advance, so plan ahead. Bottles of Lauder perfume line the vanity table in the locker room, where modesty is ensured with not one but two cover-ups--a terry smock worn under your waffle-pattern robe). Only drawback: If you arrive looking like a slob, keep in mind you will have to walk through Neiman’s first floor, down the escalator, and past the china department to get to the spa.

Best buy in a package: Day at the Spa (facial, massage, manicure, pedicure, makeup application, and lunch for $185) Most unusual treatment: Aromaspa Lymphatic Leg Therapy, a European technique for “draining fluid” from puffy gams. After a rubdown with contouring cream, legs are eased into cotton tights and hip-high plastic waders that sprout tubes connected to a gizmo called the Aromazone, which pumps in pressurized air. Like a giant blood-pressure cuff, the waders massage the legs in undulating waves mimicking the pumping action of leg muscles. $35 for 30 minutes. Address: 9700 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. Phone: (310) 550-2056

Murad 365: Open the door to this day spa in a gleaming office park and you’re hit with the pleasant fragrance of aromatherapy oils, elegantly displayed on blond-wood shelves along with a king’s ransom of bath and body products. You’ll find your personal schedule for the day taped to your locker should you get too groggy from the high-tech steam shower to remember what you came for. Massage tables are heated (yes!) and therapists like Linda Acosta say things like, “Take one deep breath through your nose, exhale through your mouth, and acknowledge your body for all the support it provides.”

Don’t miss: The Foot & Leg Treatment with Pedicure, taken in a vibrating lounge chair with a bubbling foot bath, followed by a glycolic-acid exfoliating scrub, warm mask, massage, paraffin dip, glycolic-acid moisturizer, and polish. $75 for 90 minutes. Best buy in a package: Full Day 365 Beautifier: facial, massage, manicure, foot and leg treatment with pedicure, scalp treatment and style, makeup application, lunch. 7 hours for $300. Address: 2141 Rosecrans Ave., El Segundo. Phone: (310) 726-0470.

The Spa at South Coast Plaza: Huge stone columns at the head of a circular driveway give the spa a palatial feeling. So doess the Greco-Roman interior--18,000 square feet of beige marble, gold-leaf walls, and recessed lighting. Buying a treatment package includes use of the spa’s swanky gym and outdoor pool, so you can earn your pampering with a workout beforehand. The women’s locker room earns our vote for the most opulent--with its Oriental carpet, tall blond-wood lockers, private showers, eucalyptus steam room, and a skylit whirlpool the color of celadon. Address: 695 Town Center Drive, Suite 180, Costa Mesa. Phone: (714) 850-0050.

Yamaguchi Salon and Coastal Day Spa: This airy glass-walled day spa used to be a bank. Now the vault houses the pedicure and massage rooms. Scented candles, an organic-food cafe, steaming cups of herbal tea, and mini-sculptures of water falling on stones set a Zen-like tone. Owner Billy Yamaguchi, master colorist and spokesman for Schwarzkopf ColorCompany, offers what he calls “feng shui”’ for hair, designing color and cut for optimum flattery. He and wife Melissa have trained their staff of 75 to give clients plenty of “vitamin T--for Touch,” which translates into free neck-and-shoulder massages everywhere you look.

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Most unusual products: Soy Shampoo, Silk Leave On Conditioner, Green Tea Sculpting Gel, Sake Hairspray. Best buy in a package: Day of Beauty (light breakfast, massage, facial, pedicure, manicure, scalp massage, color consultation, hairstyling, makeup, lunch, spa gifts) for $265. Address: 3260 Telegraph Road, Ventura. Phone: (805) 658-7909.

Vera’s Retreat in the Glen: Tucked into a medical office building behind a shopping center near Mulholland Drive, Vera’s verges on quaint (the cotton robes are orchid and the bathrooms are marked Monsieur and Madame). Owner Vera Brown says, “Until you’re 30, you have the face you were born with. After 30, you have the face you deserve.” That’s one reason facials are a big draw here. So are freebies. Clients get free samples of the soap, cleanser, and cream best for their skin type.

Most unusual treatment: The Four Layer Facial, including a honey-almond scrub, extractions, seaweed application, and self-heating mask to seal in moisturizer. The plaster-like cast is removed in one piece, which can be taken home as a souvenir. (Warning: The mask may scare young children). $80 for 75 minutes. Best buy in a package: Ultimate Pampering Experience (massage, body scrub, facial; 3 hours for $180). Address: 2980 Beverly Glen Circle, #100, Los Angeles. Phone: (310) 470-6362.

Glen Ivy Hot Springs: This sprawling outdoor spa in the Temescal Valley attracts people of all shapes, sizes and nationalities to its 100-degree mineral-water baths (swimsuits required). After paying the $25 admission fee ($19.50 Monday-Thursday), you’re free to soak, take a mud bath, swim, sunbathe, visit the snack bar and generally make a day of it. A separate indoor salon offers massage, facials, body wraps, waxing, and manicures. Only drawback: $1 tokens must be purchased at the salon to use a locker. Address: 25000 Glen Ivy Road, Corona. Phone: (909) 277-3529.

Burke Williams Day Spa & Massage Center: Along with its new location on Sunset Boulevard, this huge spa near the Third Street Promenade is a haven for hydrotherapy, with unique wet-room treatments in addition to free whirlpool, steam and sauna in the locker area. With 50 massage therapists on staff, you can almost always get an appointment for one of the four types of massages (Swedish, sports, shiatsu, or pregnancy). Don’t miss: The Hand and Foot Fantasy--a manicure and pedicure crossed with exfoliation and aromatherapy massage for $100. Best buy in a package: A Day of Beauty (private whirlpool, seaweed body wrap, massage, salt-glow treatment, facial; $290 for 4 1/2 hours). Address: 8000 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; 1460 4th St., Santa Monica. Phone: (213) 822-9007; (310) 587-3366.

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