How to Remove Stubborn Deck Stains
QUESTION: My deck is stained with candle wax, barbecue grease, rust and moss. How do I clean it?
Tom Philbin, a former painting contractor in Centerport, N.Y., and author of three books on painting, says:
ANSWER: For the wax, place a rag saturated with paint thinner over the stain and put some weight on it. The thinner softens the wax and the rag absorbs it. Remove the rag before it dries completely so that no wax returns to the deck.
For greasy stains, use a water-rinseable automotive degreaser, such as Gunk. Apply it with a soft brush, wait 10 minutes and rinse it off. Reapply it if needed. Carburetor cleaner works, too. Just don’t apply it in direct sun or the solvents will evaporate too quickly.
For rust, try a 5% solution of oxalic acid, available in powder form at paint and hardware outlets. Mix six ounces of powder in one gallon of water. Then brush, spray or wipe on two or more applications as needed. Be sure to wear goggles and rubber gloves.
Algae and moss stains are tough to remove permanently, because these living organisms have a tenacious root structure. But you can control them with an application of full-strength household bleach applied with a stiff bristle brush.
Freeway Noise
Q: My home sits less than a quarter-mile from a noisy freeway. We’ve done all we can to soundproof the house, but it’s still too noisy. What type of sound barrier do you suggest we build?
E. Robert Gregan, a fellow of the American Society of Landscape Architects, responds:
A: Sound travels until it strikes something that will deflect, absorb or diffuse its energy. How much noise reduction a barrier provides depends on its location, material and density. Which one you use depends on your site, budget and personal taste.
Methods I have used include border plantings, earth mounds (berms) and sound-deadening walls. Here are some general guidelines for building them:
* Plantings should be low and close to the noise source. Dense broadleaf evergreens are best, though they grow slowly and require lots of space.
* Berms, especially those made of soft-scape materials like grass, absorb and direct noise.
* Walls built from porous materials with multiple projections or baffles reflect noise far better than smooth walls. A dense vine planted against a wall or fence further reduces noise and adds beauty.
A landscape architect can help you choose the option that’s best for your site. Contact the American Society of Landscape Architects ([202] 686-2752), or you can present your problem to the “Open Discussion” group on the society’s Web site (https://www.asla.org/asla/).
Tub-Glazing Glitch
Q: A few years ago, we had our cast-iron bathtub reglazed by a local tub refinisher. The epoxy coating that was brushed on then is now badly chipped and worn through in several spots. I would like to have the tub refinished again. Is it necessary to remove the old epoxy before refinishing?
Joe Brint of American Appliance Refinishing in Wallingford, Conn., responds:
A: With all the new glazing systems, products and improvement that have appeared in the last few years, brush-on glazes don’t cut it anymore. They just don’t last.
Deteriorated brush-on glazes like yours must be removed by an experienced pro using powerful chemical strippers. If the finish is sound, you might be able to reglaze over it. But most pros won’t guarantee the job, because the high-solvent products used for the new coat can lift off the old one.
Maintenance Menu
Q: After years of living in an apartment building, I recently bought my first home. Unfortunately, a maintenance schedule wasn’t included in the mass of papers I received when I closed on the house. What items do you think should be included on a homeowner’s routine maintenance list?
Henry Spies of Spies Home Inspection Service in Champaign, Ill., responds:
A: A truly comprehensive home-maintenance checklist could go on for 20 pages. But the twice-yearly schedule that follows covers the items you’ll need to address each spring and fall.
Spring:
* Clean window screens; lubricate window and door hardware.
* Check weatherstripping for damage and a snug fit.
* Inspect the caulking at doors, windows and all joints between dissimilar materials.
* Examine floors for wear and damage.
* Inspect painted surfaces for any chips and cracks.
* Check wood siding and trim for damage and decay.
* Look for any damaged, loose or missing roof shingles.
* Check driveways and sidewalks for cracks and the yard for soil erosion.
* Clean gutters and downspouts.
* Clean window wells and storm drains.
* Check grout joints and caulking around showers, tubs and sinks.
* Remove dirt-dust from around furnace, condensing unit, return-air grilles-registers.
* Have your heating and cooling system inspected by a qualified serviceperson.
* Clean or replace air filters.
Fall:
* Clean gutters and downspouts.
* Check vents, louvers and chimney caps for any obstruction (insect or animal nests).
* Remove dirt-dust from around the furnace, condensing unit, grilles and registers.
* Service any humidifiers.
* Remove window air conditioners.
* Drain outside waterlines and disconnect garden hoses.
* Clean window wells and storm drains.
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Need an answer to a remodeling or repair and maintenance question? Write: Questions & Answers, Today’s Homeowner, 2 Park Ave., New York, NY 10016; fax: (212) 725-3281; e-mail: questions@todayshomeowner.com. Include name, address and phone number. Questions selected for publication will be answered by an expert.
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Today marks the debut of a new home improvement column that we think you will find useful. The questions and answers are from Today’s Homeowner magazine, owned by Times Mirror Inc., which also owns The Times.
