1995 Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc Reserve, To-Kalon Vineyard, Napa Valley ($20).

This wine, from a famous 19th century vineyard, is a stunning expression of Sauvignon Blanc: rich and mineral-like and more opulent than herbaceous on the palate. It has an entrancing floral perfume and a crisp backbone of acidity. The Sauvignon is cut with a little Semillon; in other words, Mondavi is using the same grapes as Bordeaux’s distinguished dry white wines. Give it some time in the glass; it’s a wine that reveals itself in layers.