The Vegetable Formerly Known as Asparagus

Asparagus is green unless it is deprived of light, in which case it is white. Or unless it is very hip and then it’s purple. These purple spears are showing up at some supermarket produce departments and farmers markets in Southern California. They tend to be fatter than most asparagus and--their fans say--sweeter and more tender too. Don’t cook them too long, though, or you’ll have paid a lot of money for what will look like regular old green asparagus.