1996 Gini Soave Classico “La Frosca,” Veneto (About $12)

If Soave, the white wine from the Veneto region near Verona, has never made much of an impression on you, taste this terrific example from the Gini estate. Soave Classico Superiore, which comes primarily from vines grown on the hills and slopes of the appellation, is already a huge step up from the usual mass-produced stuff. But this one, made from 100% Garganega grapes from the cru “La Frosca,” is in another class entirely. Crisp and minerally, with flavors as delicate as a watercolor wash, the pale gold wine is perfect for warm weather drinking and every kind of seafood.