New Mexico Targets Fake Indian Jewelry

Aided by $150,000 in state funds, the attorney general’s office in New Mexico has launched a crackdown on an old but growing problem: European and Mexican-made goods that are sold to tourists as authentic Indian crafts.

Undercover investigators are shopping for fakes in stores across the state. They are not looking to stop imitations, just to ensure that items are properly labeled.

The attorney general last month also adopted new pricing rules to protect consumers. Until earlier this year, many stores offered perpetual discounts, and their stock never sold at “regular” prices. This month, a group of businesses filed a lawsuit challenging the rules.

Some tips for buyers seeking authentic Native American jewelry:

* Ask if the piece is handmade by Indians, and get the seller to put it in writing. Some retailers remove stickers marking the country of origin or scratch away markings.

* Ask if stones are natural, not just “real.” A mere 5% of the “turquoise” on the market is natural; 65% is chemically treated turquoise and 30% is plastic, said Joe Lowry, owner of the Turquoise Museum in Albuquerque.

* Pay attention to price. Imitations can cost 30% to 80% of the price of an original. For instance, a heavy necklace made by Albuquerque Indian craftsman Marvin Lovato sells for $400. An imported version made from treated rock goes for $134.