1997 Bodegas de Vilarino Combada Martin Codax Albarino, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain). About $11.

Named after Martin Codax, a 13th century Galician troubadour, this Spanish white is made entirely from the Albarino grape that has been grown on the verdant northwest coast of Spain for centuries. It’s a great alternative to Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and a charming wine with some of the same weight and texture as Viognier--aromatic, light in body, somewhat minerally in taste with a touch of grapefruit on the finish. Another knockout from Spain.

Galicia is famous for its seafood, so it’s no accident that this wine is an ideal match with lobster or grilled fish.