1995 Domaine Croix Sancerre “Saint Ursin,” Loire Valley ($12.99)

This delicate red Sancerre has a surprisingly Burgundian character for a Pinot Noir from the Loire. It’s a charmer: soft and round, tasting of cherries, plums and earth. Even more appealing is its price; it’s almost impossible to buy a drinkable Pinot Noir for $12.99.

And it’s fine enough to go with a number of fish dishes. It would be particularly good with salmon.