1995 Viader, Napa Valley ($29)

“Lush” is the word that comes to mind for the 1995 Viader. The grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, are grown on the precipitous slopes of Howell Mountain just east of St. Helena. The fruit is very sweet, very pretty, with just a touch of mint. It’s big, all right, but you don’t have to suffer in order to drink it, because this Cabernet blend is as round and voluptuous as a Renoir nude.