Forests, Glaciers and Lakes to March By

Whistler, often ranked as the No. 1 ski resort in North America, put the stunning British Columbia Coast Range on the map. But don’t ignore adjacent Garibaldi Provincial Park, 474,000 acres of forests, glaciers and alpine lakes. Located a mere 40 miles north of Vancouver, the park is named after 8,784-foot Mt. Garibaldi, one of many tall mountains in the range.

Farther south, the words “Coast Range” often conjure up images of the sunbaked ridges and palm-fringed shores of Southern California, the redwoods of Northern California or the rainy world of the Oregon Coast. The Pacific Ocean is usually nearby--a dominating influence. British Columbia’s Coast Range, however, is an altogether different world of dense forests, snowy mountains, even glaciers. Grizzly and black bears, mountain goats and wolverines roam the range.

Douglas fir, western hemlock and red cedar cloak the park’s lower slopes, while alpine meadows are splashed with wildflowers such seasonal blooms as lupine, snow lily, Indian paintbrush and western anemone.

Thirty-six miles of trail explore the park’s back country, accessible from trail heads off Highway 99 between Squamish and Whistler. Garibaldi Lake/Black Tusk and Diamond Head are the primary backpacking destinations. Singing Pass, Cheakamus Lake and Wedgemont Lake are other favorites.

Two hike-in campgrounds are located at Garibaldi Lake, an excellent place to establish a base camp for exploration of the area. From the lake, venture to Helm Lake, Panorama Lake, Mimulus Lake and Black Tusk, a dramatic, severely eroded volcanic peak.

In the Diamond Head area, a seven-mile trail leads to Elfin Lake, where there’s camping as well as an A-frame shelter that sleeps 30.

Some hikers, particularly day hikers, will enjoy making Whistler, with every apres-hike amenity, their base of operations. Other hikers might find the resort too pricey for their tastes, and the crush of trendy jet-setting skiers a bit much. All will agree, however, that pedestrian-only Whistler Village and environs is extremely walker-friendly.

The trail to Garibaldi Lake and Black Tusk is a superb introduction to the provincial park. Mountain peaks, lakes and wildflower-festooned alpine meadows are some of the attractions awaiting the hiker who traverses this memorable land shaped by fire and ice. Two of the provincial park’s most prominent features--Garibaldi Lake and Black Tusk--are accessible from a single trail head and by trails that are themselves memorable.

Garibaldi Lake is a fine day’s walk or an excellent place to establish a base camp for further exploration of this magnificent country. Splendid campsites are perched on the hillside above the lake. Wooden platforms keep you, miles to the Garibaldi Lake/Black Tusk parking lot.

The hike: The trail to the lake winds among Douglas fir and red cedar along the north side of Rubble Creek, whose banks are strewn with avalanche-deposited boulders. You might wonder, given the rather scanty outflow from Garibaldi Lake, why Rubble Creek is so frothy and vigorous. Geologists say that waters from Garibaldi Lake, as well as from Lesser Garibaldi Lake, percolate through the porous volcanic rock, then return to the surface as springs that in turn feed the creek.

About 3.5 miles out, the trail splits. The left fork leads to Taylor Campground and Black Tusk. Garibaldi Lake-bound hikers choose the right fork, which leads to a grand viewpoint (itself a fine destination for a shorter day hike), then another two miles to the lake.

From Garibaldi Lake, a half-hour’s walk through the forest brings you to a junction with the Black Tusk-bound path coming from Taylor Meadows. An ascent on either of two parallel trails brings you to Black Tusk Meadows, which offers excellent picnicking and a view of climbers struggling up Black Tusk. The meadow affords a splendid range of options. From here you can head for Helm Lake or even Cheakamus Lake, nine miles away.

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Garibaldi Lake Trail

WHERE: Garibaldi Provincial Park

DISTANCE: To Garibaldi Lake is 11.2 miles round trip with 2,700-foot elevation gain; to Black Tusk is 15 miles round trip with 5,800-foot gain.

TERRAIN: Volcanic peaks, alpine lakes

HIGHLIGHTS: Canada’s dtunning Coast Range at its finest.

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: Stenuous

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Discover British Columbia (800) 663-6000; Whistler Information (800)

Whistler (944-7853); Garibaldi Provincial Park (604) 898-3678