Corn Bread, Indian-Style

Believe it or not, there’s something new in corn bread. It’s handwa, a bread from the state of Gujarat in western India. Tangy with yogurt, laced with shredded vegetables and topped with sesame and mustard seeds, it’s great with soup or lentils or alongside grilled chicken or ham. You can also cut it in small portions for an appetizer or snack.

Handwa is made here by Dhaba Indian restaurant of Santa Monica and distributed to a few local markets. Dhaba substitutes cornmeal for the rice and lentil flours that would be used in India and adds shredded zucchini and carrot for nice color. The best handwa is crusty on top and bottom. People in Gujarat get that effect by baking the bread in a covered pan with coals on top and underneath. Here, you can crisp it up in a toaster oven.

Handwa, $2.39 a slice, Erewhon natural foods market, 7660-A Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 937-0777; or order from Dhaba, 2104 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 399-9452.