1996 Domaine de La Madone Beaujolais Le...

1996 Domaine de La Madone Beaujolais Le Perreon Reserve 'Vieilles Vignes,' Beaujolais (About $13)

If you've always found Beaujolais Villages boring, give the appellation one more chance. This one is a Beaujolais, all right, but made with as much attention to detail as any serious wine. It's a luscious unfiltered Gamay with lots of spice and bright fruit and a pretty nose of cherries. A truly delicious little wine, friendly in every way, one that could stand up to some Burgundies quite nicely, thank you.

Just the bottle to uncork for a simple supper--a roast chicken, say, or grilled lamb chops.

Available at Hi-Times Wine Cellars, Costa Mesa; Manhattan Wines & Liquor, Manhattan Beach; The Wine House, West Los Angeles; Woodland Hills Wine Co. (formerly Northridge Hills Liquor), Woodland Hills, among others.

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