Lofty Eagle

Armenia’s national bird is the eagle. Now, maybe only Armenians or Audubon life members are likely to answer that one correctly on the Jeopardy Challenge, but now that you know it, you shouldn’t be surprised to learn that “Eagle” is also the name chosen by the Valley’s newest Armenian restaurant.

This narrow two-story establishment (the former Akbar) does double duty as a handsomely appointed art gallery. Both floors are stocked with a terrific display of original paintings (all for sale) by local Armenian artists. One of the most memorable, displayed at the back of the downstairs dining room, is a pastoral scene painted in colors as vivid as any in Van Gogh.

None of this would be of much interest if the kitchen weren’t as good as it is. The menu features a long list of both Armenian and Russian appetizers, plus a variety of kebabs broiled over an open flame on a sword. If you’re familiar with the culinary hybrid that is American Armenian cuisine, Eagle offers few surprises, but a meal here is definitely a cultural encounter, and the staff, though far from fluent in English, works hard to please.

Appetizers are king in the Caucasus. A meal begins with a variety of dips, salads and exotic finger foods, representing a chef’s palette of cultures. For instance, eggplant caviar, a dip of eggplant mashed with tomato and garlic that is common to Russia, Iran and the Balkans. Eagle also makes a delicious version of hummus, that creamy Lebanese paste of garbanzo beans and sesame seeds.

Eagle serves excellent basturma, which is in effect a Caucasian bresaola, except that the thinly sliced beef is richly spiced with cumin, fenugreek and red pepper. There’s a high-powered version of dolma--or stuffed grape leaves, as we call them in Encino. These dense, bite-sized cylinders (about 4 inches long) have a savory rice and pine nut filling.

Khinkali are giant ravioli with a thick skin and a dense filling of minced beef. These dumplings are baseball-size, sensuously juicy and intensely garlicky in every bite. They’re cooked to order, making them problematic as appetizers. Ours came after we had nearly finished the main dishes.

Salads are also quite good here. There’s a nicely vinegary kidney bean salad (which the Georgians also claim). Eagle makes a refreshing tabbouleh of chopped parsley, onions and tomatoes with a sprinkling of bulgur wheat.

Most main dishes are kebabs on flavorful rice pilaf. The best is beef lula, a chopped beef kebab redolent of onion and parsley. The most delicately marinated is chicken breast kebab, which comes to the table nicely tender. I was disappointed by the lamb shish kebab, though. I could have sworn the three fatty chops were fried, rather than broiled.

I wouldn’t even think of ordering any of the kebabs without a side of lebneh, by the way. It’s yogurt condensed to impossible richness, then dappled with fruity olive oil.

Two fine nonkebab dishes are Kievsky chicken, a buttery, crumb-crusted fried chicken cutlet, and chanakh. The latter is a steamed lamb shank served in a traditional Armenian earthenware dish filled to the brim with a rich sauce of tomatoes and bell peppers.

For dessert, there is sticky baklava. Wash it down with the muddy demitasse of coffee known in Armenian circles as soorj. Art critics in the crowd may want to drink a second cup.

BE THERE

Eagle, 17049 Ventura Blvd., Encino. Open Monday, 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Tuesday-Wednesday, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Thursday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday, 5-11 p.m. Street parking. No alcohol. Major cards. Call (818) 789-6701.