Stubborn Spout Will Yield to the Right Pressure
QUESTION: I want to replace a corroded bathtub spout, but it won’t unscrew. The spout is connected to copper tubing, so I’m concerned about applying too much force and possibly twisting the copper pipe. How can I safely remove the spout?
Merle Henkenius, a plumber and author in Lincoln, Neb., answers:
ANSWER: The spout is connected one of three ways. It could be a simple slip fitting held in place by a hex-screw fastener on the underside of the spout; this is an easy thing to miss. Check the underside, remove the screw if you find one, and slide the spout off with a slight twisting motion.
The spout could also be threaded onto a copper male adapter soldered onto the pipe. Or it could be threaded onto a nipple connected to a 90-degree brass drop-eared L-shaped fitting inside the wall. Either way, it shouldn’t be that difficult to loosen.
If the spout is threaded on, you’re probably being too cautious. The first step is to cut through any caulk between the spout and wall. Then grip the spout near the wall with a 10-inch pipe wrench and try again with a little more gusto. Push counter-clockwise, using steady pressure.
If that approach doesn’t work, you’ll need to cut off the spout with a hacksaw. Start by sawing off the spout end just behind its opening. If that exposes the threads where the spout joins the nipple, cut diagonally across them with the hacksaw; try not to cut into the nipple. After severing the threads, twist off the spout.
If cutting off the tip doesn’t expose any threads, cut through the spout about 1 inch from the wall. Look for the threaded connection, saw through the threads--again, don’t damage the nipple--then twist off the spout.
Replating Can Be Expensive and Risky
Q: My home was built in 1930. The antique brass doorknobs and faceplates on all the doors are worn. This hardware is unique and I don’t want to replace the pieces. Can they be refinished or replated? If so, how do I find a reputable company?
John Christou, vice president of George Taylor Specialties, a New York City-based dealer and manufacturer of reproduction hardware, suggests:
A: If the hardware is solid brass, the protective lacquer coat may be gone and the “wear” you see could be tarnish. In that case, have any remaining lacquer stripped off and the brass polished and relacquered. If the hardware is brass-plated steel and the plating is wearing off, polishing will only make things worse.
Replating is an option, albeit an expensive one. If the pieces are valuable antiques, they might be worth it. Otherwise, get an estimate and compare it to the cost of replacing the parts with reproduction pieces. To give you an idea, the average cost for our reproduction doorknobs is $15, and $10 to $20 for faceplates.
If you decide to replate, keep the following in mind:
A poor replating job can destroy the value of an item. To find a good replater, check with the managers of motorcycle and automotive speed shops. These people usually are fanatical about quality work. Antique dealers can also refer you to a reliable plater.
Replating will highlight surface flaws rather than hide them. If possible, have flaws polished off before replating--without polishing off engravings or stamped dates or numbers.
Make detailed drawings or take photos of all the parts. These visual records will come in handy when it’s time to put everything back together, especially if the replater loses a part.
3 Methods Can Fix Slippery New Ramp
Q: We built a wooden ramp up to the front door of our new home, but it’s very slippery when wet. How can we make it less dangerous?
Tom Philbin, a former painter and author of three books on painting, explains:
A. There are a number of effective ways to make a ramp less slippery. The simplest is to apply strips of self-adhesive abrasive tape every couple of feet across the ramp. The rough-textured tape is sold at home centers in various widths from 1 to 4 inches; prices range from about 60 cents to $2 per linear foot.
You can also finish the ramp with nonskid paint, an exterior enamel that contains abrasive grit (about $26 per gallon). Or buy an abrasive additive and mix it with any exterior-grade deck paint.
The final option is to spray on two coats of a new product called Skid-Tex ($14 for a 12-ounce can). This nonslip, clear acrylic coating is made by Bondex, 3616 Scarlet Oak Blvd., Department TH598, St. Louis, MO 63122; (800) 231-6781.
Do you have a remodeling or repair question? Send it to Questions & Answers, Today’s Homeowner, 2 Park Ave., New York, NY 10016.
