1996 Joseph Phelps Vin du Mistral “Pastiche,” California (About $8)

Pastiche is a new addition to the terrific Rho^ne-style wines--Syrah, Viognier and a Grenache rose--Joseph Phelps has been making under the Vin du Mistral name. This one is a blend of Mourvedre (the grape that goes into Bandols from Southern France) and Grenache with a smaller proportion of Syrah and a couple of other grapes. With its bright, juicy fruit and taste of cherries and plums, this vibrant red wine is something like a cross between a Co^tes du Rho^ne and a Beaujolais. It’s a wine of charm that is also a flat-out bargain. Serve it lightly chilled.