Borscht

What’s better suited to this transitional autumn weather than a bowl of borscht? Try cold borscht on hot days, hot borscht on cold days.

* Out Take Cafe: The hearty vegetarian beet borscht at this Studio City cafe can be ordered hot or cold. Either way, it comes with a dollop of creme frai^che. For a great comforting dinner in cold weather, have the borscht hot with a side of vareniki dumplings stuffed with mashed potatoes and served with caramelized onions and more creme frai^che. (Borscht, $5.95; dumplings, $7.95.) Out Take Cafe, 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 760-1111.

* Diaghilev: The Bel Age Hotel’s Russian restaurant serves an excellent traditional, cabbage-rich hot borscht--balm for the weary traveler, and anyone else. (Borscht, $9.) Diaghilev, Wyndham Bel Age Hotel, 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 854-1111.

* Barney Greengrass: Here you’ll find the most beautiful presentation of borscht in the city: The very popular chilled beet borscht, mildly sweet and sour, comes in tall glasses topped with a scoop of sour cream. (Power drink or classic soup?) Also watch the daily soup special for hot borscht with red cabbage and brisket of beef. (Borscht, $3.50 per glass; $8 per quart to go.) Barney Greengrass, Barney’s New York, 9570 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 777-5877.

* Langer’s Deli: Every day, Langer’s makes a hearty sweet-and-sour cabbage borscht with beef. You can also have a homemade cold beet borscht, with or without warm potatoes--and with sour cream on request. (Borscht, $2.75 per bowl; $1.75 per cup.) Langer’s Deli, 704 S. Alvarado St., Los Angeles, (213) 483-8050.

* Canter’s: You can get the cool ruby-red beet borscht here, with its floating island of sour cream. Or the hot, pungent cabbage borscht, made daily. (Beet borscht, $2.95; cabbage borscht, $2.75.) Canter’s, 419 Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 651-2030.

* Uzbekistan: This Russian/Central Asian restaurant serves hot, flavorful Russian borscht made with beef, beets, cabbage, potatoes and vegetables. Enjoy it with piroshki, a flaky pastry filled with vegetables (mushroom, cabbage, etc.) or seasoned meat. (Borscht, $5.75; piroshki, $1.90 each.) Uzbekistan, 7077 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 464-3663.

* Rasputin: Rasputin, Uzbekistan’s sister restaurant in the Valley, serves eclectic European cuisine with a Russian accent--as well as the very same borscht and piroshki as above. (Borscht, $5.75; piroshki, $1.90 each.) Rasputin, 13615 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 907-6336.