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What a great idea--lasagna made with seafood instead of meat. Santa Monica Seafood does an excellent version, loaded with shrimp, scallops and Dungeness crab. Fit for a party, the lasagna contains three kinds of cheese--mozzarella, ricotta and Parmesan--along with basil, white wine, garlic and the usual tomatoes and lasagna noodles. Slip it into the oven half an hour before dinner. Bake some garlic bread, toss a salad, open a crisp white wine and you have a wonderful, almost effortless meal.

Seafood lasagna, $5.99 per pound at Santa Monica Seafood’s three locations: 1205 Colorado Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 393-5244; 1700 N. Main St., Orange, (714) 921-2632; 154 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 574-8862.

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