1997 Falesco Vitiano, Umbria, Italy (About $10)

This blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Sangiovese (in about equal proportions) is deep garnet in color, round and soft in taste and loaded with the ripe, plummy fruit of the beautiful 1997 harvest, which winemakers are calling one of the great Italian vintages of the century. It's made by a respected young Umbrian enologist named Ricardo Coltarello, who has produced a terrific quaffing wine, bottled unfiltered, that is much better than its modest price suggests.

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