"I'd had the 1996 Kathryn Kennedy Winery Syrah at several wine competitions, and it had done very well, so I bought some of it. It's just a superb wine. It's really black and intense in color, and it has real complexity. There are black peppercorns to a slight degree but also a rich, berried, almost licorice-y Syrah flavor. Most Syrahs in this climate are very one-dimensional. This one is just dynamite. It is exactly what Syrah producers should aspire to in California."