We've had a touch of fall, but...

We've had a touch of fall, but it's likely that a long Indian summer stretches before us. Luckily, chefs are addressing this with fresh fruits and ice-cream makers.

* Michael's: Pastry chef Dorte Lambert-Milman takes the short stroll over to the Wednesday Farmers Market and makes sorbet from whatever fruit is fresh and best. Recent flavors have included mango, coconut, pineapple, peach, lemon, apricot and strawberry. A sampler of five sorbets is served with a cookie plate. (Sorbet, $9.50.) Michael's, 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-0843.

* Spago Beverly Hills: Pucker up for Sherry Yard's passion fruit sorbet; it's every bit as thrilling as a good kiss. Also, her chocolate sorbet rolled in flakes of dark Manjari bittersweet chocolate makes us realize what's missing from chocolate ice cream: deep and complex chocolate flavors. (Sorbet, $8.) Spago Beverly Hills, 176 N. Canon Drive, (310) 385-0880.

* Cinnabar: Chef Damon Bruner and his staff make sorbets daily from fresh fruit. This summer, he's been working through melons, using berries singly and in combinations and trying various infusions. A recent trio of scoops included blueberry, Crenshaw melon and mango lime. Be on the lookout for pineapple-mint, ginger-coconut, passion fruit and other flavors. (Trio of sorbets, $5.) Cinnabar, 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 551-1155.

* Alto Palato: Gelato genius Gino Rindone single-handedly elevated the quality of gelato in this town--and his sorbets are every bit as luscious. Recent flavors include lemon, pineapple and fig. (Sorbet, $5.) Alto Palato, 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 657-9271.

* Water Grill: Concord grapes and nectarines are terrific this year--and so are sorbets made from them by pastry chef Wonyee Tom and her staff. Her other successes include strawberry, Campari-grapefruit, lemon--and a honeydew melon soup with lemongrass-infused sour cream sorbet. (Sorbet, $7.50.) Water Grill, 544 S. Grand St., Los Angeles, (213) 891-0900.

* Fosselman's: This local favorite ice cream manufacturer also produces excellent sorbets in peach, lemon, green apple, banana, mango and a terrific boysenberry. (Sorbet: cone, $1.40; hand-packed pint, $3.50; hand-packed quart, $6.50; prepacked half-gallon, $4.98; prepacked 3-gallon container, $25.) Fosselman's Ice Cream Co., 1824 W. Main St., Alhambra, (818) 282-6533.

In the Mood welcomes questions and comments. Send e-mail to: inthemood@pacbell.net

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