1995 Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva, Tuscany. (About $10.)

This is the kind of easy-drinking and entirely delicious Chianti that’s hard to find these days. Chianti Rufina is the smallest of the Chianti zones, and though it has a long reputation for quality, it is overshadowed by the much bigger reputation and wines of Chianti Classico. In Basciano’s Chianti Rufina, there’s just the lightest hint of cherry on the nose. The fruit is sweet and soft. And the price is unbelievably good for a riserva, especially from the 1995 vintage.

What doesn’t go with a good Chianti?