Hawaiian Fish

Ono. Opah. Onaga. Opakapaka. Moi. Monchong. Hebi.

If Mako Segawa-Gonzales has his way, these names will soon be as familiar to us as halibut and salmon. Mako, as he is known professionally, is conducting a campaign to introduce Southland diners to the pleasures of Hawaiian fish.

Mako was born on the island of Hawaii to a Mexican American mother and a third-generation Hawaiian Japanese father. He went to high school in Tucson, Ariz., where he started his food-service career washing dishes but soon became one of the line cooks at an old-fashioned Continental restaurant specializing in beef Wellington and steak Diane.

Eventually, he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in New York and returned to Hawaii to work for Roy Yamaguchi. For almost three years, he was sous chef at the famous Roy’s in Maui. It was at Roy’s in Kauai, which he opened, that he developed his own style.

In 1997, when the Maui Beach Cafe opened, Mako brought his own brand of fusion cooking, which has some European and Asian influence but is based on Hawaiian regional cooking, known in the foodie world as HRC. And HRC is rife with Hawaiian fish.

To enjoy HRC, you have to embrace Hawaiian fish and the fish of the South Seas with their beautiful percussive names--some Japanese, some Hawaiian and at least one, opah, from West Africa.

When Maui Beach Cafe opened, Mako put a lot of Hawaiian fish on the menu, but he found people didn’t order them. So he rewrote the menu to include Chilean sea bass, salmon and other familiar fish.

“Using such well-known fish would introduce customers to our cooking style and flavor systems,” he says. “Then, the idea is to nudge them into trying the Hawaiian fish.” Every day he offers a fresh island fish special. So far, his method seems to be working, because Hawaiian fish sales have risen consistently.

Hawaiian fish can be divided into several categories.

*Tunas: These include tombo (Thunnus alalunga) and two species of ahi--big eye ahi (T. obesus) and yellowfin ahi (T. albacares). The ahis are already fairly well known here on the mainland as a versatile fish that can be broiled, baked, sauteed, grilled, seared or served raw as sashimi. The translucent red flesh cooks to a creamy white--if you want to cook it all the way through; with ahi, many people consider rare the ideal.

Tombo is also well known to us, but rarely as a fresh fish--it’s albacore, the only fish that can be canned as white-meat tuna in the United States. Fresh, the pretty pink flesh is drier and less fatty than other tunas--and less expensive. Fresh tombo is gaining in popularity. It makes good mild sashimi and sushi, and otherwise is prepared like other tunas. For home cooking, Mako suggests marinating tombo in mirin (rice wine) and soy sauce and grilling it. When cooked, the meat becomes firm and white and seems only a distant relative of the canned stuff.

*Billfish: These tuna relatives include swordfish (Xiphias gladius), which needs no introduction, and hebi, or shortbill spearfish (Tetrapturus angustirostris), which does. Hebi has dense, firm pink meat that stands up well to grilling and broiling. Unlike Atlantic swordfish, which has been over-fished, Pacific swordfish is still somewhat plentiful. The firm, meaty, mild flesh is white to pink; when grilled, broiled or smoked, it turns an appealing white.

Other popular Hawaiian billfish include kajiki or blue marlin (Makaira mazara) and nairagi or striped marlin (Tetrapturus audax), which are firm, meaty fish, very popular for grilling and in raw preparations in Hawaii. Marlin are scarce and cannot be shipped to the mainland, but look for them in Hawaii.

*Open-ocean fish: These include the well-known mahi-mahi or dolphin fish (Coryphaena hippurus), the most popular fish in Hawaii (and one of the most popular in California restaurants), and opah or moonfish (Lampris guttatus), perhaps the most curious-looking of the Hawaiian fish.

Opah is large--it can reach seven feet in length, and four feet is common--with a very deep body; if you ignore the tail, it’s practically disk-shaped from the side. Meanwhile, it’s quite narrow, rarely more than a foot wide if looked at head on, and it’s distinctively colored: bluish on top and red below, with white spots all over. The very firm, large-grained, oily flesh, usually pinkish in color, has given it the monicker of Hawaiian salmon. Old-time Hawaiian fishermen considered it “the good-luck fish.”

Ono, also known as wahoo (Acanthocybium solandri), is a sturdy, somewhat dry tuna relative with flaky, sweet white meat. Ono can be substituted in recipes for mahi-mahi.

Monchong or big-scale pomfret (Taractichthys steindachneri) has firm, smooth, moist white to pinkish flesh, which holds up nicely with sauces. Serve it grilled or sauteed or baked with a light sauce.

Hamachi or yellowtail (Seriola lalandei) is a fatty fish that’s already well known to us from Japanese restaurants, where it is a favorite for sashimi and sushi. When cooked, the translucent white flesh becomes dense white; it’s dense, meaty and delicious, and goes well with simple sauces, especially those based on citrus.

* Bottom fish: These include a rainbow array of snappers: opakapaka or pink snapper (Pristipomoides filamentosus), onaga or ruby snapper (Etelis coruscans) and uku or gray snapper (Aprion virescens). In Hawaii, the first two have become wildly popular and expensive. Filets are going for as much as $16 a pound. Because of the demand, onaga and opakapaka are being fished in various areas of the South Pacific, particularly around Fiji.

Mako describes onaga as “a beautiful, light-tasting fish, more of a delicacy than the usual red snapper.” It’s a delicate fish that can be served raw as sashimi or baked, poached or steamed. In Hawaii, it often shows up at ceremonial occasions such as New Year’s parties and weddings.

Though opakapaka is sometimes described as a snapper, the clear, firm, pale pink meat and mild flavor are much more appealing than much of what is sold as snapper on the West Coast. It should be cooked like onaga.

Uku is firmer-fleshed and fattier than the other Hawaiian snappers. Though similar in taste, it’s not as delicate or flaky--or as expensive. Uku can substitute for opakapaka and is cooked in the same ways. In the summer, the fish are especially fatty and rich, and thus especially desirable for sashimi.

*Farmed fish: There’s growing Hawaiian aquaculture industry. Moi, or threadfin (Polydactylus sexfilis), a trout-like fish with many bones that was esteemed by Hawaiians years ago, is a brackish-water fish. It was especially affected by agricultural runoff, but a big effort has been made to regulate the problem, and farming it has also increased and improved the supply.

Lobster and kahuku, a sweet freshwater prawn, now come from fish farms. Kahuku prawns, though prized and popular in Hawaii’s fine dining rooms, have a very short shelf-life; they turn mushy very quickly. Santa Barbara prawns, which are equally perishable but easier to get here, are a good substitute.

*

Mako’s campaign must be working. After tasting tender sweet opakapaka and onaga, moon-shaped opah and good-to-eat ono, I find it’s hard to settle for yet another wedge of Chilean sea bass or salmon steak. Luckily for home cooks, Hawaiian fish is becoming available here at specialty fish stores.

Rosemary-Grilled Opah

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

4 (6-ounce) opah filets

1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

1 to 2 tablespoons chopped rosemary

1/4 cup Red Pepper Coulis

1/4 cup Balsamic Glaze

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

* Brush filets on 1 side with olive oil and sprinkle with salt to taste and rosemary. Place filets oiled side down on hot grill and cook 1 minute, then turn 90 degrees to make diamond grill marks and cook 1 minute more. Brush top of filets with oil and sprinkle with salt to taste and rosemary, turn over and cook 1 minute, then turn 1/4 to make diamond grill marks and cook until fish flakes with fork, about 1 minute more.

* Drizzle Red Pepper Coulis and Balsamic Glaze on fish and plate. Sprinkle with parsley.

4 servings. Each serving without Red Pepper Coulis or Balsamic Glaze: 170 calories; 162 mg sodium; 50 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 28 grams protein; 0.18 gram fiber.

Portuguese Seafood Stew

Active Work Time and Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 onion, chopped

1 stalk celery, finely diced

1/2 pound Portuguese sausage, cut into 1/4-inch slices

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups clam juice

1 cup white wine

1 pound clams in shell, cleaned

1 pound mussels in shell, cleaned

1 teaspoon crushed oregano

1 pinch saffron

1 teaspoon dried red chile flakes

1 pound Kahuku prawns or large shrimp, rinsed

4 (6-ounce) ono filets, cut into 2-inch pieces

Parsley

* Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, saute garlic, onion and celery until slightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add sausage and saute until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes.

* Add clam juice and white wine and cook, stirring, over medium-high heat to deglaze pan.

* Add clams, mussels, oregano, saffron and chile flakes and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cover and steam until clams and mussels open, about 5 minutes. Add shrimp and ono and continue cooking until shrimp are pink and fish flakes with fork, 2 to 3 minutes.

* Divide stew into 4 bowls and garnish with parsley.

4 servings. Each serving: 756 calories; 1,293 mg sodium; 288 mg cholesterol; 33 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 89 grams protein; 0.43 gram fiber.

Macadamia-Dusted Swordfish

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

4 (6-ounce) swordfish steaks

Oil

1/4 cup macadamia nuts, finely chopped

2 tablespoons Asian Pesto

2 tablespoons Balsamic Glaze

2 tablespoons Banana Salsa

* Brush fish on 1 side with oil and coat with macadamia nuts.

* Heat 1 tablespoon oil in skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, place fish nut-side down in skillet and cook until nuts are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Turn and cook until fish flakes with fork, about 3 to 4 minutes.

* Place fish on plates, nut-side up. Drizzle with Asian Pesto and Balsamic Glaze. Top with Banana Salsa.

4 servings. Each serving without pesto, glaze or salsa: 26 calories; 11 mg sodium; 5 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 0 carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

Asian Pesto-Crusted Ono

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

4 (6-ounce) ono filets

2 cups Asian Pesto

1 (5-ounce) package baby salad greens

1 cup Balsamic Glaze

* Marinate filets in 1 cup Asian Pesto for 10 to 20 minutes. Pat fish dry and discard marinade.

* Lightly sear fish in skillet over medium-high heat, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to oven and bake at 300 degrees until fish flakes with fork, about 15 minutes.

* Arrange baby greens in center of serving plates. Set fish on greens and drizzle with Balsamic Glaze and Asian Pesto.

4 servings: Each serving without glaze or pesto: 202 calories; 56 mg sodium; 52 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 32 grams protein; 0.25 gram fiber.

Balsamic Glaze

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

2 cups balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon honey

* Cook vinegar and honey in saucepan over medium-high heat until reduced to 3/4 cup, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool.

3/4 cup. Each tablespoon: 32 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber.

Red Pepper Coulis

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

3 red bell peppers

6 shallots

Olive oil

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon white pepper

* Rub bell peppers and shallots lightly with olive oil. Place on baking sheet and roast at 425 degrees, turning occasionally, until peppers begin to blister, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven and cover with cloth. When cool enough to handle, peel peppers, slice and remove seeds.

* Puree peppers, shallots, garlic, thyme, parsley, vinegar, 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper in blender just until smooth, about 20 seconds. Do not puree too long or olive oil will turn bitter.

1 1/2 cups. Each tablespoon: 13 calories; 100 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.11 gram fiber.

Banana Salsa

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes

2 bananas, diced

2 tablespoons peeled, seeded and diced tomatoes

1 tablespoon diced green onions

1 tablespoon diced red bell pepper

1 teaspoon black sesame seeds

2 teaspoons lemon juice

Salt, pepper

* Gently stir together bananas, tomatoes, green onions, red bell pepper, sesame seeds, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

2 cups. Each tablespoon: 7 calories; 9 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.04 gram fiber.

Asian Pesto

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

2 bunches green onions, chopped

1/2 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon minced ginger root

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 cups peanut oil

* Puree cilantro, green onions, garlic, ginger, salt, pepper, sesame oil and peanut oil in blender until smooth, about 45 seconds.

2 1/2 cups. Each tablespoon: 100 calories; 30 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 0 carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.03 gram fiber.

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Where to Buy Hawaiian Fish

Santa Monica Seafood. There is a vast assortment of fish here. You can usually find albacore (tombo), ahi, mahi-mahi, yellowtail, hebi, ono, monchong, Pacific swordfish, opakapaka and onaga. Availability varies with weather and lunar cycles; fish go deep during a full moon, which makes them more difficult to catch.

1205 Colorado Ave. Santa Monica, (310) 393-5244; 1700 N. Main St., Orange, (714) 791-3632; 154 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 574-8862.

Fish King. There are always ahi and swordfish, and they try to have ono, mahi-mahi and albacore on a regular basis. When it’s available, the store also stocks akule (Hawaiian mackerel); opakapaka, onaga and other specialty fish. Call ahead for the availability of specific fish.

722 N. Glendale Ave., Glendale, (818) 244-2161.

Los Angeles Seafood. If it’s in season and available, chances are you’ll find any kind of Hawaiian fish at this downtown wholesaler-retailer: ono, opah, onaga, opakapaka, uku, aku (another kind of tuna), monchong, hebi, Pacific swordfish and many more.

420 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 489-4236.

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99 Ranch Markets. Although the selection varies from store to store, these Chinese markets have extensive fresh fish counters and often carry various Hawaiian fish.

1340 W. Artesia Blvd., Gardena, (310) 323-3399; 1015 S. Nogales St., Rowland Heights, (626) 964-5888; 1300 S. Golden West Ave., Arcadia, (626) 445-7899; 140 W. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, (626) 307-8899; 6450 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys, (818) 988-7899. 15333 Culver Dr., Irvine (949) 651-8899. And seven other stores around the Southland.