A Fresh Approach

A restaurant needs a label--a tidy description to give potential customers at least a general idea of what they are getting their palettes into. For the new Two Gringos in Thousand Oaks it’s “regional Mexican and nuevo Latin cuisine.”

Located across from the Thousand Oaks Auto Mall, the 2-month-old Two Gringos started with an idea of bringing a fresh approach to Mexican cuisine in the Conejo Valley. “When we first sat down to come up with our concept we decided on something that would be more in sync with the times,” said Dan Crisafulli, who owns the restaurant with partner Matthew Blake.

In other words, the menu would focus on dishes that appeal to the lighter side, featuring no lard or heavy oils, less salt, lighter sauces and a lot of fresh vegetables. Crisafulli--a veteran in the restaurant business--hired a chef from L.A.’s trendy Westside to fashion his chosen “nuevo Latin cuisine.”

The resulting menu features a contemporary spin on dishes from such regions as Yucatan and Oaxaca.

“We have taken a little bit from here and a little bit from there,” Crisafulli said. “Some of the plate presentation and some of the things we do would be considered Southwestern as well.”

Signature dishes include chile rellenos, though not of the familiar battered, deep-fried breed. Two Gringos char a poblano chile and stuff it with chicken breast, cheese and golden raisins and then top it with a Ranchera sauce.

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There is also a chicken breast roulade--a chicken breast rolled in blue cornmeal and stuffed with black beans, poblano chile, red bell pepper, avocado, cheese and served with roasted tomato-maple sauce and a tomatillo mole. A blue corn tostada served with shrimp, steak or grilled vegetables is also topped with black beans, shredded lettuce, guacamole, pumpkin seeds, sour cream and cilantro.

For the meat eater in you, there is an ancho chile crusted tri-tip, consisting of rolled marinated tri-tip, seared and served with tomato-maple sauce, grilled nopales and fresh mixed vegetables.

Crisafulli said the foods have been well-received, yet he has amended the menu to include traditional Mexican favorites for the sake of business.

“There are some people who don’t want to get away from what they are used to,” Crisafulli said.

Nixed from the menu were dishes that weren’t moving or those that the clientele wasn’t willing to accept. A few familiar items were added, including fajitas. “It just means that we have to give them fajitas in our style of cooking,” he said. “We are trying to give the customer great tasting but lighter food so when they walk out of here they’re not feeling like they’ve had three meals.”

Straying from a strict offering of “nuevo Latin cuisine” caused a conceptual rift between Crisafulli and his Westside chef, who eventually left the restaurant.

“There were certain things that the customers were demanding that he did not want to give,” Crisafulli said. “Some customers come in the first time and it’s very difficult to get them to try new things.” As a result, Crisafulli said he took a more active role in the kitchen, and delegated the remaining duties among five other cooks. Another house specialty of Two Gringos is the salsa. Here, the focus is single-minded: a smoked chipotle chili concoction, made daily on site and served at the table with a mix of warm blue and yellow corn tortilla chips (which are fried in canola oil).

Also notable, premium tequila varieties are plentiful and the margaritas are made with fresh lemon juice.

Housed in the former Hudson Bar & Grill, Two Gringos has evolved decoratively with the help of Crisafulli’s wife Laureen, a commercial artist. She designed and created a Latin-themed interior, including walls that are festooned with vibrant, three-dimensional, fresco-style renderings.

There is seating for about 110, plus room for 35 in a small back room, which can be reserved for special occasions.

DETAILS

Two Gringos is at 3825 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thur.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.; 4-10 p.m. Sat.; 4-9 p.m. Sun. Call 497-6490.

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Whoop or whine: For obvious reasons the coming tax filing deadline can either be a good or bad thing. Therefore, Wine Lovers in Ventura offers the April 15 “Heart of Darkness Tax Day Tasting,” an occasion to fete your expected return or a chance to numb your sorrows. Whichever the case, the wine bar and shop will feature the eccentric wares of Bonny Doon Vineyard, located in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

The winery is the brainchild of the free-spirited Randall Graham, whose wines are celebrated by a cult-like following. Many of Graham’s wines are a composition of French varietals blended with other grapes. For instance, the 1997 Vin Gris de Cigare: 36% syrah, 28% grenache, 12% mourvedre, 8% cinsault, 6% sangiovese, 6% carignane, pinot noir, pinot meunier, nebbiolo and black Muscat.

The tasting will be begin at 7 p.m. Cost: $20. For more information or to reserve a seat, call 652-1810.

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Extended blues: The slender Blues Bakery coffee joint in downtown Ventura sits at the bottom of a staircase, which leads up to Oddfellow’s Temple. Why is this noteworthy? Because proprietor Bruce Leonard, Jr.--maker of a super-fine pumpkin muffin and other goodies--has decided to extend his hours of operation beginning Tuesday. Simultaneously, the new Theater on Main company will open its inaugural production April 23 in the upstairs space and Leonard will be open to service theatergoers.

The new hours are: Tue.-Wed., 7:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; Thur., 7:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Fri., 7:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Closed Mondays.

The Blues Bakery is at 518 E. Main St., Ventura. Call 648-4453.

Rodney Bosch writes about the restaurant scene in Ventura County and outlying points. He can be reached at 653-7572, fax 653-7576 or by e-mail at: rodney.bosch@latimes.com.