The Greek Classics

Here’s a place with a catchy name (Byzantine Greek Restaurant), a convenient downtown Glendale location and an elegant look--the dark brick walls are dramatically offset by rows of giant floor lamps that look like luminescent amber torpedoes, so the whole room glows like a candle-lit chamber in a medieval castle. Now all it needs is a little more consistency in the kitchen.

The menu has most of the Greek classics. I liked the meatball appetizer (keftedes) in its aromatic tomato sauce (though it didn’t have the common flavoring of mint), and the renowned Greek village salad (horiatiki). This version, made with cucumbers, crumbled feta, red onions, ripe tomatoes and kalamata olives doused in a heady vinaigrette, is excellent.

On the other hand, the egg-lemon soup (avgolemono), made with orzo pasta in place of rice and rich with shredded chicken, is tasty but watery. The cold appetizer combo is a pretty plate of four symmetrically portioned dips: tzatziki (cucumbers in yogurt), tarama (cod roe whipped with olive oil and lemon juice), eggplant puree and hummus. But except for the thick, creamy tzatziki, they’re overly pureed and not especially flavorful.

Among the entrees, the delicious moussaka gets the balance of sweet spices just right. And the stuffed grape leaves have a nice ground beef filling and come with a delicious dill-scented, egg-lemon sauce.

But the Macedonian pasta, topped with good grilled shrimp, chopped tomato and a little feta, is spoiled by mushy angel hair. And the chicken riganeto, roasted with oregano, garlic and lemon juice, came to my table tepid, leading me to suspect it had been cooked in the morning and reheated. On the other hand, the oven-roasted lamb, presented in a pile of chunks and shreds a la Mexican carnitas, is trim, tender and wonderfully lamb-y.

Greeks call it baklava, Armenians (such as the owners of Byzantine) call it paklava, but by any name this is the one dessert to order here. It’s a large square of filo pastry stuffed with crushed walnuts and steeped in hot syrup. My paklava was fresh and even still a little warm when the waiter brought it. It was easily the best thing I ate here.

Byzantine has its failings, but the Dark Ages are over for anyone looking for Greek food in downtown Glendale.

BE THERE

Byzantine Greek Restaurant, 208 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale. Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner 5-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Sunday. Valet parking in rear. Beer and wine only. All major cards. Suggested dishes: keftedes, $4.35; Greek village salad, $6.35; moussaka, $12.95; oven-roasted lamb, $14.65; paklava, $3.50. Call (818) 662-9393.