Ensenada Insider

After 35 years of visiting, traveling and often living in Mexico, Billy Cross has come up with one reason to revel in his outsider status: chilaquiles.

Maybe if he’d grown up in a Mexican family, he’d have more of a reason for his stand on the dish, which is basically nothing more than eggs cooked with tortillas and salsa. Still, in Mexico, they’re an object of contention. In some families the tortillas must be crisp, never limp. Others argue that chilaquiles should be soft and comforting. As it is, Cross can only rely on his sensibility as a cook.

“It’s the same way with American cooking,” he says. “Someone might say, ‘That’s the only way to make that dish, and I don’t care if they make it different in the next state; our way is the right way.’ That’s how regional recipes survive.

“At the same time,” Cross goes on, “I love being able to come in as an outsider and say, ‘Oh, this is the way they do it here, and this is the way they do it there.’ I choose my own way by being open to all the variations out there.” Of course, that’s another way regional recipes survive--by being adopted by outsiders and shared with the world.

Cross explains his chilaquiles philosophy (he prefers soft to crisp) as he roasts tomatoes and chiles at the stove of his open kitchen for the salsa that will top the chilaquiles. With a view of the Pacific through the windows of his dining room, he is leading a Mexican cooking class in his home. It’s one of the first classes of his recently formed International Cooking Expeditions de Mexico, designed to give Ensenada visitors more than the usual beer bars and trinket shops. His weekend tours include drives through the Guadalupe Valley, Mexico’s emerging wine region; wine tastings; tours of the abundant fish and vegetable markets of Ensenada; and, naturally, cooking classes.

As it turns out, however, the students in this particular class include San Francisco restaurateur Patricia Unterman, not to mention cookbook author Marion Cunningham and Chez Panisse founder Alice Waters. Even professionals will play student if there’s good food around. Plus, Cross approaches his role less as all-knowing instructor than as great host, showing off the insider places of an area he knows well and sharing his best recipes when guests come to his house for brunch. He’s had some practice at this: Cross founded Napa Valley’s Great Chefs of France Cooking School with the late Michael James and ran a cooking school in Puerto Vallarta.

This is the third day of Cross’ tour. On the first night, after a drive through the Guadalupe Valley, everyone met at Cross’ home for a welcome dinner. Among the guests was James’ sister Catherine Smith.Cross made mole manchamanteles, brick red with a wonderfully complex flavor, and he served it with yellow beans cooked in broth. For dessert he presented a sweet corn pudding cake.

The next day Cross led everyone through the fresh fish sellers near Ensenada’s pelican-populated docks, as well as local taco stands, artisan shops, a tortilla shop and a vegetable and spice market with hot churros carts in front sending out sweet cinnamony aromas.

The nutty aroma of roasted chiles fills Cross’ home on the last day of his tour. As Cross and Guillermo Aguilar, a painter friend and cook, prepare the salsa and rinse Swiss chard leaves--some shot through with bright yellow ribs, others with red--the class munches on freshly made chips and guacamole and sips on ponche de Granada, a tequila-based punch flavored with pomegranate juice that only gets better with age or a nonalcoholic pomegranate agua fresca.

But when it’s time to assemble the tamales, Cross gets everyone involved. Even the 4-year-old in the group helps spread the masa, rich with butter and creme frai^che, on chard leaves, with Cunningham and Waters giving gentle guidance. “It’s like putting butter on bread,” Cunningham tells the little girl.

Cross gets his helpers to cut the chard stems into thin matchsticks, then he briefly sautes them in butter and uses them to fill the tamales. As class members fold their tamales into little packages, Cross tells the apprehensive not to worry about the tiny holes and tears that might appear on the leaves. “We can always cover them up with the salsa,” he says.

With the tamales cooked, everyone sits down to eat . . . and to plot the next meal. It’s not on the itinerary, but Waters, Unterman and Cunningham have put a deposit on several lobsters with the thought of thanking Cross for his hospitality with dinner. Waters decides that a lobster salad would be perfect after Cross’ big, wonderful meal.

Everyone piles into cars, then caravans to the lobster warehouse to pick up the live seafood and then to one of Ensenada’s huge supermarkets, there to behold the sight of Waters sorting through an unpromising pyramid of avocados and magically finding 10 perfectly ripe fruit. She does a similar trick with the radishes, lettuce and a few bunches of cilantro and other herbs.

Back at Cross’ house, the sun is setting, the ocean glistens and the class becomes a group of friends making dinner together. A few of the lobsters, as if on cue, slip out their packing crates and crawl around the kitchen as if they were extras in “Annie Hall.” Unterman and Waters get the shellfish in the pans. Waters thanks the lobsters before sending them to their fate as dinner. Unterman supervises the lobster pots while Waters oversees the vegetables, which Cross has soaked in a purifying solution of water and a few drops of Bacterfin. Everyone chops herbs for the vinaigrette and slices radishes, jicama and avocado. The 4-year-old gets another cooking lesson, this one from Waters on slicing.

Unterman removes the lobster meat from the shells and arranges the shellfish on the salad. Waters spoons her herb vinaigrette over the salad. Cross opens a bottle of Guadalupe Valley wine. Everyone digs in.

Cunningham tells stories about grunion-hunting at Laguna Beach years ago and the time when she ran a gas station on Foothill Boulevard; Waters describes the plot to “An Affair to Remember,” one of her favorite movies, with such passion that her listeners are all on the edge of their seats as she nears the end of the story, even if they’ve seen Deborah Kerr waiting for Cary Grant to notice the withered legs that kept her from their rendezvous a hundred times. Smith tells stories of the days Cross and her brother Michael cooked together.

Through it all, Cross smiles. This is the way it should be when a group gathers to eat together and cook together over several days. This is the way Cross likes his guests to go home--happy.

For rates and information about Cross’ classes and tours in Ensenada and Puerto Vallarta, telephone or fax International Cooking Expeditions de Mexico at (011) 52-61-74-75-06.

Simple Syrup

To make a simple syrup, cook water and sugar until clear. The proportions of those ingredients depend on how the syrup is to be used. For drinks, use a light syrup, half as much sugar as water (to make 1 cup of simple syrup, use about 3/4 cup of water and 6 tablespoons sugar). Heavier syrups can be used for canning fruits. Leftover simple syrup will keep tightly covered in the refrigerator almost indefinitely.

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Pomegranate Punch (Ponche de Granada)

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Cross learned this classic Jalisco punch from the family of Juan Diego Michel, a cook from the villages of Tapalpa and Sayula. The punch is also delicious with the addition of tequila or raw cane spirit. In Tapalpa and Sayula it is almost always made with tequila. He warns that the sugar and pomegranate juice mask the wallop of the alcohol.

Serve it at room temperature in a little earthenware coffee cup sprinkled with chopped pecans or on the rocks in a short tumbler. This punch can also be made with such fruits as blackberry, quince and tamarind. It will keep for several years. With time, it becomes somewhat like a fortified wine, similar to Madeira.

6 cups pomegranate juice, preferably freshly squeezed (24 to 30 pomegranates)

1 (50-milliliter) bottle white tequila (use only a brand that is distilled from pure agave)

1/2 to 1 cup simple syrup

* Mix pomegranate juice, tequila and simple syrup to taste in large mixing bowl. Drink should taste of tequila but not be overpowered by it.

* Pour punch into wine bottles and seal with corks. Leave bottles upright in dark, cool area for 3 to 6 months. Do not refrigerate. Punch will begin to throw sediment in bottom of bottle and will develop a white lump like the “mother” in a vinegar culture. Punch can be kept several years before being served.

15 to 20 servings. Each of 20 servings: 217 calories; 6 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.37 gram fiber.

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Pomegranate Cooler (Agua Fresca de Granada)

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 5 minutes * Nonalcoholic

Cross likes this example of the coolers found all over Mexico. Refreshing drinks can be made in the same manner from all sorts of fruits.

1 cup pomegranate juice, preferably freshly squeezed (4 to 5 pomegranates), seeds reserved

8 cups water

1 to 1 1/2 cups sugar

* Mix pomegranate juice, water and 1 cup sugar in large pitcher. Taste and balance tartness of juice with sweetness of sugar by adding more sugar or water as needed. Flavor should not be too sour. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

* Add ice to pitcher just before serving and garnish each glass with few pomegranate seeds.

8 to 10 servings. Each serving: 149 calories; 3 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.15 gram fiber.

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Mole Manchamanteles

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

Manchamanteles (“tablecloth stainer”) is one of the famous seven moles of Oaxaca, but versions are made all over Mexico. This one, from the family of Carlos Conrique of Guadalajara, is milder and fruitier than the Oaxacan style.

Lighter, simpler versions of moles are often used as enchilada sauces in Mexico. In American restaurants, heavy, complex moles that would be served by themselves in Mexico are often inappropriately used as enchilada sauces.

STOCK

2 (3 1/2-to 4 1/2-pound) chickens, each cut into 8 pieces

2 onions

4 stalks celery, chopped

4 whole cloves or 2 big pinches ground cloves

2 carrots, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 bay leaves

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 dried chile de arbol

2 whole allspice

24 cups water

Salt

* Simmer chicken pieces, onions, celery, cloves, carrots, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, chile de arbol, allspice and water in large stockpot and cook until tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Add salt to taste.

* Remove chicken from stock and set aside. Discard vegetables and seasonings and reserve stock.

MOLE

6 dried guajillo chiles

1 dried ancho chile

4 cups boiling water

1 pound fresh or canned tomatoes

Oil

1/2 cup raw sesame seeds

1 white onion, roughly chopped

1/4 cup whole raw almonds

1/4 cup raw pecans

1/4 cup raisins

4 cloves garlic, halved

2 whole cloves or big pinch ground cloves

2 black peppercorns

1 whole allspice

1 (2-inch) stick cinnamon or 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 sprigs fresh oregano or 1/2 teaspoon dried

9 to 10 cups chicken stock

2 plantains or 1 fresh pineapple, cored, peeled and cubed

Salt

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

* Remove stems, seeds and veins from both kinds of chiles. Toast chiles in skillet or on griddle over low heat until slightly fragrant and beginning to blister. Be careful not to burn chiles.

* Put chiles in bowl and pour boiling water over them. Let soak 20 to 30 minutes (the longer they soak, the less hot they become). Transfer chiles from bowl to blender with slotted spoon and puree, adding some of soaking water if needed to blend well. Pass pureed chiles through sieve or food mill and set aside.

* Quarter tomatoes and cook in dry skillet over medium heat until dry, about 20 minutes. Blend well in blender and pass through sieve or food mill to remove seeds and skins.

* Heat 1 tablespoon oil in skillet over low heat. When hot, add sesame seeds and cook, stirring constantly, until seeds brown slightly, about 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl. When cool, grind in spice grinder or with mortar and pestle.

* Return skillet to medium heat, add 2 tablespoons oil and onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and transparent, about 10 minutes. Add almonds, pecans, raisins, garlic, cloves, peppercorns, allspice, cinnamon and oregano and saute, stirring constantly, until brown and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Transfer to blender and add 1 cup chicken stock. Blend until smooth.

* Put 2 tablespoons oil in large pot and heat over medium heat until slight haze forms over oil. Add chile puree and fry, stirring constantly, until dry, about 20 minutes. Mixture will splatter, so carefully partially cover pot with towel.

* Add tomatoes, sesame seeds and onion mixture and cook, stirring constantly, 10 minutes. Add chicken stock to make fairly loose mixture, 4 to 6 cups, and continue cooking, adding more stock as necessary.

* Slice plantains and fry in 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until brown and slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

* Add plantain or pineapple to chile mixture and cook about 10 minutes to combine flavors. Add 1 tablespoon salt or more to taste. Stir in sugar. Mole should be thick enough to coat spoon. Add more stock to thin, if needed.

* Add chicken to mole and gently stir to completely coat chicken. Transfer to large, warm serving dish or platter. Place any sauce that won’t fit in serving dish in bowl and serve with corn tortillas.

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 208 calories; 709 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.25 grams fiber.

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Swiss Chard Tamales With Tomatillo-Herb Sauce

Active Work Time: 40 minutes Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

Vegetarian

These terrific tamales are wrapped in Swiss chard leaves, which are meant to be eaten (unlike corn husk wrappers). Cross’ recipe was adapted from one developed at the hotel La Casa de Maty, Tapalpa, Jalisco. Be sure to test one tamale for doneness before removing the whole batch from the steamer; the cooking times can vary.

TAMALES

3 heads red or white Swiss chard

1 tablespoon butter

Salt

1 pound fresh corn masa

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted

Water

1/4 cup creme frai^che or mixture of 1/4 cup heavy whipping cream and 1 tablespoon sour cream

1 cup warm water

* Remove 10 to 12 largest leaves from chard. Separate stems from small leaves and cut stems in thin sticks. Blanch all of chard--large and small leaves and stems--in large pot of salted boiling water until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully drain chard and rinse gently under cold water to stop cooking. Drain again. Chop stems and smaller leaves. (If leaves begin to tear before stems are tender, remove from water, then cook stems separately in 1 tablespoon butter until tender.)

* Place chard on paper towels, gently spreading open leaves and patting leaves and stems dry with paper towels.

* Combine masa, baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon salt, melted butter and creme frai^che in medium bowl. Add up to 1 cup water if needed to make masa wet and soft, consistency of semi-thick cake frosting.

* Spread about 2 tablespoons masa mixture on 8 large chard leaves with spatula. Add chopped leaves and stems on top of masa.

* Fold leaves over filling like little envelopes. Patch holes with any leftover chard or double-wrap if needed to cover masa. Don’t worry if some masa is exposed; it will become firm as it cooks.

* Steam tamales over boiling water 20 minutes. Test for doneness by removing 1 tamale and tasting. Filling should be slightly soft to touch and there should be no baking powder taste. If not done, steam 5 to 10 minutes more. Do not overcook.

* Serve on warm plate with warm Tomatillo-Herb Sauce.

TOMATILLO-HERB SAUCE

3/4 pound tomatillos

1 serrano chile

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

20 sprigs cilantro

20 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

20 sprigs watercress, or equal amounts cilantro and parsley

1 tablespoon oil

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon sugar, optional

Salt

* Boil tomatillos, chile, onion and garlic in water to cover until tomatillos are soft, about 5 minutes. Drain, reserving cooking liquid.

* Puree in blender, adding some of reserved cooking liquid if necessary to blend smooth. Add cilantro, parsley and watercress and pulse. Herbs should retain some texture.

* Heat oil in skillet over medium heat. When hot, add pureed mixture and cook until slightly thick, about 15 minutes. Add up to 1 teaspoon salt to taste. If sauce seems bitter, add sugar.

* To serve, reheat tamales over steaming water 2 minutes. Place 1 or 2 tamales on plate and pour small amount of Tomatillo-Herb Sauce over tamales or make bed of sauce and place tamales on it. Pass extra sauce at table. Makes 2 cups.

8 tamales. Each tamale, with 2 tablespoons sauce: 329 calories; 532 mg sodium; 29 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.42 gram fiber.

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Chilaquiles

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes

These are not the crisp style of chilaquiles that some cooks make; the tortillas soften with the addition of eggs and tomato sauce so that you get a wonderful, comforting dish that makes a perfect brunch entree. Cross based his recipe on one by cook Juan Diego Michel.

TOMATO SAUCE

3 large tomatoes, boiled or roasted, peeled and cored, or 1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, drained and juices reserved

1 onion, chopped

3 serrano chiles, chopped

1 large clove garlic, sliced

2 tablespoons oil

Salt

* Roughly chop tomatoes in food processor or blender. Add onion, chiles and garlic and blend, adding some of reserved tomato juice if necessary for blending.

* Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add tomato mixture and cook until sauce thickens slightly and returns to orange or red color, about 5 minutes. Add salt to taste and set aside.

TORTILLAS AND EGGS

1/2 cup oil

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

1 large clove garlic, chopped

1 dozen thin corn tortillas, quartered

1 dozen eggs, beaten

Salt

6 sprigs cilantro, optional

Mexican crema or creme frai^che thinned out with 1 to 2 tablespoons whipping cream, at room temperature

* Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add onion and garlic and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

* Wipe skillet clean with paper towel and heat 1/3 cup oil over medium heat. Fry tortilla pieces in batches until lightly golden but not brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to rack to cool or drain on paper towels. Keep cooked tortillas chips warm.

* Remove all but 2 tablespoons oil from skillet. Return to heat, add warm tortilla chips and lightly toss in hot oil. Add eggs, salt to taste, onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until eggs are firm but moist, about 5 minutes. Quickly add Tomato Sauce and lightly toss.

* Transfer to warm platter. Drizzle with crema and garnish with sprigs of cilantro, if desired. Serve alone or with guacamole.

6 to 8 servings. Each serving without guacamole: 512 calories; 338 mg sodium; 425 mg cholesterol; 36 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 2.74 grams fiber.