1997 L’Ecole No. 41 Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington (About $27)

This wine, from an estate known for Merlot, makes a strong argument for blending it with a little Cabernet Franc (11%) and an even smaller proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (4%). It’s terrific juice, elegant and lean where others are fat and flabby, tasting of black cherries, with a sweet grapey nose and just enough soft tannins to give it definition. It was made in the cellars of the Frenchtown school depicted on the colorful label, then aged 18 months in oak and bottled unfiltered.

Available at many fine wine shops. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, Adventures in Wine (415) 467-0130. You can also order directly from the winery online at www.lecole.com at $25 per bottle, plus shipping. Buy a case and you get a 10% discount.