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How Do You Fix a Leaky Faucet?

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TODAY'S HOMEOWNER

LEAKY FAUCET

Before you start

* Shut off the water under the sink.

* Close the sink drain; cover it with a rag to catch dropped parts.

* Tape the jaws of your wrench with a layer of duct tape to avoid scratching the fixture.

* Establish a place to lay out parts in order of removal.

* Use some distilled white vinegar and a soft scouring pad for removing mineral deposits on faucet parts.

Water dripping onto a boulder will eventually break down the rock. A little closer to home, water incessantly dripping from a leaky faucet in the wee hours of the morning will lead to a breakdown of another kind. The drip, drip, drip has a way of driving you crazy.

We’ll show you how to stop the drip.

FIND YOUR FAUCET

There are four kinds: compression, cartridge (sleeve), ceramic disk and ball type. Each type is illustrated. Except for the compression faucet, there are two illustrations for each. The less detailed version will identify the kind you have. The more detailed one will help as you make repairs.

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A compression faucet relies on rubber washers to seal the valve seat. Rubber washers wear out and must be replaced occasionally. The other types, often called washerless faucets, last longer but they too can develop leaks. When these cartridge, ceramic-disk or ball-type faucets leak, you can either replace the O-ring or neoprene seal that’s causing the leak or replace the entire assembly.

COMPRESSION FAUCET

Most leaky compression faucets need new seat washers. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, pull off the handle and use a crescent wrench to unscrew the packing nut. After unscrewing the stem, remove and replace the seat washer held in place by a brass screw.

Coat the washers with nontoxic, heat-proof plumber’s grease. Pop the stem out of the packing nut and replace the O-ring, the culprit for leaky handles.

O-rings range in size from three-eighths of an inch to five eighths of an inch, so it’s crucial to match the size on your faucet. Coat the new O-ring with the plumber’s grease. Reassemble the faucet and tighten the packing nut.

If your faucet continues to leak, the seat might be pitted. Remove the stem and grind smooth the valve.

BALL-TYPE FAUCET

This faucet has a lot of parts, and that often makes it difficult to find the cause of the leak. You can avoid the aggravation by buying a replacement kit (about $10) and putting in all new parts.

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First, remove the handle set screw and lift off the handle. Use adjustable pliers to remove the cap and collar. Using the special tool included in the faucet-repair kit, loosen the faucet cam and lift it out along with the cam washer and the rotating ball. Reach into the faucet body with needle-nose pliers and remove the inlet seals and springs.

Next, cut off the O-rings, coat the new ones in nontoxic, heat-proof plumber’s grease and roll them on. Install new springs, valve seats and cam washers as you reassemble the faucet. Another more expensive option for an older faucet is to replace the entire fixture. You’ll need a basin wrench to do this.

CARTRIDGE FAUCET

Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, tilt the handle back and pull it off. If there’s a threaded retaining clip holding the cartridge in place, use needle-nose pliers to remove it, and then pull the cartridge straight up.

Remove the spout and cut off the old O-rings using a utility knife. After coating the new O-rings with nontoxic, heat-proof plumber’s grease, reassemble the unit.

To replace the entire cartridge ($10 to $15), match the length of yours to the replacement cartridge length (the Danco “Picture Perfect Replacement Faucet System” book, found at some home centers, makes matching parts easy). Also match the stem end where the handle attaches.

CERAMIC DISK FAUCET

Push the faucet handle back to access the set screw. Remove the screw and lift off the handle. Remove the escutcheon cap, unscrew the disk cylinder mounting screws and lift out the cylinder.

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With a blunt screwdriver, lift out the neoprene seals from the cylinder (if the seals are damaged, replace them; they cost about $3) and use distilled white vinegar and a plastic scouring pad to clean the cylinder openings. Rinse thoroughly.

Replace the seals and reassemble the faucet. Move the handle to the “on” position and very slowly turn the water back on--the force of the returning water can fracture the ceramic disk.

If you’re replacing the entire cylinder, which seldom is necessary, merely set it in place and secure it with the new mounting screws. Replacement disks cost $8 to $15.

Reprinted from the pages of Today’s Homeowner Magazine. To receive more expert advice on improving your home, call (800) 456-6369 or visit the Web site at https://www.todayshomeowner.com

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