Creme de la Cool

“Hot desserts, with a few exceptions, do not appeal to the palate during the heated term,” began a Times article on Aug. 27, 1916. “[T]he general preference is for desserts that are either frozen or chilled through and that will not raise the temperature of the body when the weather is doing this already.”

True enough, especially in those pre-air-conditioning days. So cookbook writer Marion Harland provided Times readers with a dozen summer recipes. The first of these--Chilled Peaches with Custard--follows here.

In 1916, Los Angeles wholesale peach prices ranged from $1 to $1.25 per lug. They’re $10 to $20 per lug today (the lug, a wooden crate, holds 56 to 96 peaches). But let’s discuss the custard: The original recipe called for the egg yolks and whites to be beaten separately. After several failed attempts in The Times Test Kitchen, we realized the eggs must be whisked together whole, then the custard strained to keep it from separating. In the end, we prepared a kind of creme anglaise (which usually calls only for egg yolks)--the French term for a rich custard sauce.

It is exceptionally delicious, with hints of almond extract. Served with the custard-coated peaches, it makes for an elegant presentation at the table.

From the 1870s to about 1910, Harland helped celebrate home cooking through numerous books on cookery and household management (called “housewifery”). “Common Sense in the Household: A Manual of Practical Housewifery” (1871) is among her most famous writings.

In her autobiography, Harland described her slow start in the kitchen. Apparently, she did not begin cooking seriously until she married and grew frustrated with the “ineptitude” of her cook. But, she wrote, “the conviction of my own crass and comprehensive ignorance waxed into a haunting horror.”

Luckily, Harland’s cooking skills improved. And, 83 years later, here’s one dish we can all enjoy.

*

Chilled Peaches With Creme Anglaise

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes plus 1 hour 30 minutes chilling time

1 1/2 cups milk

2 tablespoons sugar

2 eggs

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

4 peaches

8 maraschino cherries

Whipped cream

* Cook milk and sugar in medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes.

* Whisk eggs to combine in mixing bowl. Pour 1 cup hot milk-sugar mixture over eggs, stirring. Return to saucepan and stir over low heat until custard thickens, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in almond extract. Remove from stove, strain into bowl, cover with plastic wrap so wrap touches surface of custard and refrigerate 1 hour.

* Cut shallow “X” in bottom of each peach and carefully immerse in large pot of boiling water. After 15 seconds, remove 1 and try to pull peel back. If it comes away easily, remove peaches and rinse under cold water before peeling. Cut peaches in half, remove pits and place cherry in center of each half. Dip each peach into chilled custard and chill 30 minutes.

* Place 2 peach halves on each of 4 dessert plates, pour remaining custard around peaches and top with whipped cream.

4 servings. Each serving with 1 tablespoon whipped cream: 156 calories; 81 mg sodium; 115 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.57 gram fiber.