Rules of Thumb

Some tips to make the process easier:

Rod length: Curtain rods should go 4 inches above a window and, if there’s room, extend 4 inches beyond, plus the finial on either side. If the drapery extends wall to wall, then the drape should run ceiling to floor.

Drape length: If not extending wall to wall, then side panels can either be placed just a few inches lower than the window or to the floor. In a kid’s room or a smaller room, keep them short. In formal areas, floor-length drapes look more elegant. If you want panels to puddle (a nice look until Fido or Frisky decides it makes a great bed), order panels 12 inches longer than floor length.

Rod finish: Choose carved wood for formal settings, stainless steel or brushed nickel for modern, black iron for classic or casual, and white-washed gold for an eclectic setting. When you’re picking the color of the finish on, say, wood or iron, pick one that goes with something else in the room or, failing that, pick the least obvious.

Mounting: Treatments mounted inside a window look more custom-made. Those mounted outside make the window look larger, can hide an asymmetrical window and may be necessary when there’s a handle protruding on, say, a sliding glass door.

Fabric: Silk, linen and cotton first come to mind when designers consider drapery material. But like other areas of window dressing, more choices now confront the consumer. Today, chenilles, cotton velvets, hemp and interesting textured sheers are available. Silk is gorgeous but won’t hold up like linen or cotton, especially if it’s subjected to sun. Don’t be too quick to write off polyester and other blends, which don’t wrinkle, are easy to clean and look far better today than five years ago. Also, try to pick a year-round fabric. Velvet might look wonderful in November, but come July, you’ll be more in the mood for linen. One nice touch, if you can afford it, is to buy two or three sets of panels that you can change with the season.