Take a Bite of a Shark for a Change

“Mexican food is tired. It’s old. It’s the same,” says Bob Arranaga of El Hijo del Granjero (The Farmer’s Son), the new Mexican food stall in the Farmers Market in Los Angeles. Arranaga is revamping that image with lighter, less starchy dishes such as charbroiled seafood dinners. We ordered thresher shark, marinated with orange juice, then broiled and topped with sauteed wild mushrooms seasoned with achiote and white wine (there are four other toppings to choose from). Side dishes are rice and pinto or black beans. Or you can substitute nopales salad for one of these. This is advisable, because the nopales salad is exceptional. It contains the customary additions--tomato, onion and cilantro. What is different is the creamy dressing, an emulsion of balsamic vinegar and corn oil.

Thresher shark dinner, $9.50 at El Hijo del Granjero, Stall 322 in the Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (323) 935-9331.