A Mandu Reunion

I remember being bundled up in a woolly scarf and thick coat as we drove 90 miles across the frozen Minnesota prairie to a small Asian grocery store, my parents in search of transparent mung bean noodles and chewy rice cakes. I remember wondering why people stared at our grocery cart brimming with heads and heads of cabbage.

I remember, too, those late nights when my mother, sisters and I diligently prepared Korean mandu, or dumplings, in batches of 500, the pungent scent of fresh pickled cabbage wrinkling our noses. When, weary and cranky, one of us would make that final scrape of the bowl, then fill and seal the last mandu, it seemed we had reached a milestone.

It’s more than 20 years later and, just as in the old days, I’m watching my mother puree mung beans for the bindae ttok, mung bean pancakes, a tradition in our household on the Korean New Year. The lunar new year, which this year began Tuesday, is a time when families get together in a celebration filled with wishes for good luck and long life. The day has always been bittersweet, though. My grandparents still live in Korea, along with assorted aunts, uncles and cousins. The day is a reminder of family members far away.

But this Korean New Year, celebrated early in our family this year, is a reunion of sorts. My father and mother, who are visiting from Minnesota, meet up with friends they haven’t seen in about 20 years. My father’s old neighbor, Daeshik Kim, originally from Seoul, makes the drive from Cerritos with his wife, Moon Ku Kim, to meet my father. My mother is reunited with her junior high school friend Young Ja Kim, who has settled in Torrance. And for me? It’s a chance to see my youngest sister, Rose, now a college student at the University of Wisconsin in Madison. I haven’t seen her in three years.

The gathering takes place at the home of Inseong and Soonie Paik. Their spacious house, with its marble floors, pillow-laden couches and gourmet kitchen, sits atop the Hollywood Hills. We arrive loaded with groceries and Korean dishware after spending the day shopping at several markets, looking for rice cakes (ttok) of the perfect shape, cookies and the sweet rice drink called sikae. Rose was elated with the markets because she loves persimmons, which we eat as if they were grapefruit. She bought a case of them for herself.

Preparations for the dinner took three days. The mushrooms and mung beans were soaked overnight. The next day, we made mandu. It’s a painstaking process, which is why we have always made great quantities once or twice a year and stored them in the freezer.

Traditionally, mandu is stuffed with beef or pork, but my mother now uses crab meat because neither of my sisters eats meat. Most of the dishes she makes have been adapted for American tastes because she learned to cook in this country and often had to make do without certain ingredients.

The filling and sealing of the mandus take hours. And during preparation, Rose and I argue over how to chop the crab meat.

“Rose, you’re doing it wrong,” I tell her.

“What are you talking about? This is right,” she says, as she shreds the crab meat into pieces that look like long bits of yarn.

“No, no, no. You’re supposed to shred, then chop!”

“This is right.”

“Leave!” I yell. Rose stomps off.

My mother is ready to add the crab meat to the filling. I’m slow with the chopping, so my mother coaxes a huffy Rose to return to the cutting board. But amid the commotion, my mother forgets to add an ingredient to the mandu. As she partially fries and then steams the mandu in the pan, she picks one up to sample.

“Something’s missing. It’s different,” she says, puzzled.

We taste the mandu. “Blah,” says my sister Erica, making a face. I can tell something is amiss too.

“Garlic powder!” my mother says. What would my grandmother think?

It is customary in Korea for the women to labor in the kitchen while the men drink rice wine, eat dried squid and talk. This event is no different, though our household diverges somewhat from tradition because my father--the only man in a household of four women--is obliged to wash the dishes.

The men sit on plush couches in another room, telling stories about the old country. Daeshik Kim attended elementary school with my father, who was the eldest of eight kids, and was a kind of big brother to him. Both grew up poor, in households where food was scarce and often flour was substituted for rice, especially during the hard days from World War II through the Korean War.

Later in the evening, as they eat side by side, I picture them as youngsters and imagine that this simple dinner is a feast compared to what they had in their youth.

“Saehae eh gungang gua hangbok bimnida,” the men say, toasting to a New Year, health and happiness as they down tiny cups of rice wine.

In the kitchen, the women aren’t thinking about health and happiness. They are too busy cooking. Besides mandu, today’s dinner is chap chae, galbi tchim, ttok sanjok, bindae ttok and white rice.

Soonie Paik, co-owner of a Beverly Hills hair salon, puts on her reading glasses, sits at the kitchen table and begins to stem the spinach. “I know nothing about cooking,” she tells my mother.

The younger women wash and clean the vegetables. Erica starts sauteing the onion for the chap chae.

“Let me make the vegetables,” Young Ja Kim tells my mother. “I’m going to try this new pot.”

She starts preparing a side dish of soybean sprouts called kongnamul in a cherry-red pot she’s bought for the occasion. Mrs. Kim thinks using the new pot to make the soybean sprouts is quicker, and by not using the traditional method--boiling the sprouts--more vitamins are retained.

But the vegetables burn. My mother puts the remaining soybean sprouts in a boiling pot of water. Kim moves on to galbi tchim, a dish of slow-cooked short ribs in a sweet sauce of pears, brown sugar, chestnuts and red bell pepper. Kim, an oh-so-meticulous cook (maybe because she’s a pharmacist), carefully follows the recipe and measures two tablespoons of soy sauce for the galbi tchim. My mother, on the other hand, throws a dash here and a dash there. Then she tastes.

“Oh, needs more sesame oil,” she says of the chap chae, letting the oil drip into the pot.

After dinner is prepared, the older adults change into their bright Korean gowns, called hanbok, which are worn on special occasions. Korean food is not served in courses--we just eat everything at the same time.

Everyone says the bindae ttok is delicious. Ttok sanjok, a rainbow of carrots, mushrooms, green onions, meat and rice cakes on skewers, vanish.

After dinner, everyone gathers to play Yut, a traditional Korean New Year game in which sticks are thrown into the air and a team’s fate depends on how they land. The men drink the last drops of rice wine and the women polish the evening off with warm corn tea. Everyone nibbles on Korean cookies and fruit.

Before leaving Los Angeles, my family makes another stop at the Korean markets, which seemed like Disneyland for them--they ooh and ahh walking through the aisles, plucking items from shelves. They pack persimmons, dried red peppers, red dates, dried squid, green tea and bottles of rice wine until their suitcases bulge.

“You can’t get these in Minnesota,” my mother says of some sesame cookies I snack on from a platter on my kitchen table.

“But you can,” she adds, swiping the remaining few into a plastic bag and putting them into her luggage.

“I’m not carrying that,” my mother says, pointing to a 5-pound bag of black beans, which my father likes in his rice but can’t find in Minnesota. “If Daddy likes so much, he can carry.”

And poor Rose with her beloved persimmons. She took so many, her bag burst on the conveyor belt at the airport.

Korean Potstickers (Mandu)

Active Work Time: 1 hour 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours * Low-Fat

1 small cabbage, finely chopped

Salt

1 pound bean sprouts

2 onions, finely chopped

Vegetable oil

3 (4-ounce) cans mushrooms

1 (10-ounce) package firm tofu

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 pound crab meat or imitation crab meat, finely chopped

2 eggs, separated

4 (10-ounce) packages potsticker wrappers

* Sprinkle chopped cabbage with 2 tablespoons salt. Let stand until limp, about 30 minutes. Rinse cabbage, drain and squeeze out excess water.

* Blanch bean sprouts in boiling water, about 3 minutes. Drain and squeeze out excess water.

* Saute onions and cabbage in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil until wilted, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

* Drain and chop mushrooms, squeezing out excess water. Wrap tofu in cheesecloth and squeeze out excess water. Tofu will crumble.

* Combine cabbage, bean sprouts, onions, mushrooms, tofu, sesame oil, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, garlic powder and crab meat in large bowl. Squeeze excess water from mixture. Add egg yolks and mix well.

* Lightly beat egg whites in separate bowl. Brush edges of potsticker wrappers with egg whites. Put 1 tablespoon filling in center of wrapper, then fold in half into crescent shape. Crimp edges together.

* Heat 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil in skillet over medium heat. Fry potstickers in batches until lightly browned, about 2 minutes per side, adding vegetable oil as needed. When all potstickers are fried, return to skillet. Add 3 tablespoons water and simmer, covered, until tender, about 5 minutes.

* Variation: Substitute 1 pound ground beef or 1 pound ground pork for crab meat. Cook in skillet with 1 tablespoon soy sauce until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain juices before adding to filling.

60 potstickers. Each potsticker: 34 calories; 42 mg sodium; 11 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.23 gram fiber.

Dipping Sauce (Ganjang Yangyum)

Active Work and Preparation Time: 5 minutes * Low-Fat

Use this sauce for the Korean Potstickers and Mung Bean Pancakes.

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

3 green onions, including green tops, chopped

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons sesame seeds

* Combine soy sauce, vinegar, green onions, sesame oil and sesame seeds in bowl.

1/2 cup. Each 1 teaspoon: 5 calories; 168 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; trace fat; 0 carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

Rice Cake Shish Kebabs (Ttok Sanjok)

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes * Vegetarian-Adaptable * Low-Fat

Grill these over charcoal for a smoky flavor. Rice cakes are so crisp and delicious when grilled you won’t miss the meat if you leave it out.

1/4 cup soy sauce

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon red wine

4 teaspoons sesame oil

1 pound sirloin, cut in thin inch-long pieces

8 carrots, quartered lengthwise and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 teaspoons sesame seeds

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 pound Korean pre-cut tube-shaped rice cakes

1/4 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced

1 bunch green onions, including green tops, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 package (8-inch) wooden skewers

Vegetable oil

Silgocho or shredded dried red chile, optional

* Combine 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 2 garlic cloves, red wine and 2 teaspoons sesame oil. Pour over meat and let marinate 30 minutes.

* Blanch carrots in boiling water, about 3 minutes. Drain and set aside.

* Combine remaining 3 tablespoons soy sauce, remaining 2 garlic cloves, remaining 2 teaspoons sesame oil, sesame seeds and 1 tablespoon brown sugar in bowl.

* Thread rice cake, carrot, mushroom, green onion and meat onto skewer, repeating until skewer is full. Repeat with remaining ingredients and skewers. Discard marinade. Place kebabs on platter and sprinkle soy sauce mixture. on top, turning skewers to coat.

* Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Cook kebabs in batches, searing until meat is browned, about 2 minutes per side. Add more vegetable oil as needed. Garnish with shredded red chile if desired.

20 kebabs. Each kebab: 150 calories; 225 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.47 gram fiber.

Mung Bean Noodles With Vegetables (Chap Chae)

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Cilantro may be substituted for the spinach to add a little bite. One pound of cooked ground beef or pork may be used instead of shrimp.

NOODLES AND VEGETABLES

1/4 pound dried shiitake mushrooms

1 bunch spinach

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 cloves garlic, minced

Salt, pepper

1 (9-ounce) package mung bean or sweet potato cellophane noodles

6 green onions, including green tops, cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces

2 onions, thinly sliced

2 carrots, grated

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 pound cooked baby shrimp

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons brown or granulated sugar

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

* Soak mushrooms in water to cover at least 1 hour or overnight.

* Meanwhile, blanch spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain and cut into small pieces. Combine 1 tablespoon soy sauce, garlic and salt and pepper to taste in bowl. Add spinach and mix. Set aside.

* Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large pot, then remove from heat. Add noodles, cover and soak 30 minutes. Drain noodles, then let soak in cold water while preparing other vegetables.

* Remove mushrooms from water. Squeeze excess water from mushrooms and slice.

* Saute green onions and sliced onions, carrots, mushrooms and spinach in 1 1/2 teaspoons vegetable oil in skillet over medium-high heat, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove to large bowl and set aside.

* Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to skillet and saute shrimp until pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add to bowl with vegetables.

* Drain noodles and cut in 4-inch lengths. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons vegetable oil to skillet and saute noodles 2 minutes. Add noodles to bowl with vegetables and shrimp and mix well. Combine remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar and sesame seeds in small bowl. Add to vegetables and noodles and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

* Transfer to serving bowl and top with Fried Egg Garnish.

FRIED EGG GARNISH

2 eggs, separated

2 tablespoons oil

* Beat egg yolks and egg whites separately.

* Heat 1 tablespoon oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add egg yolks and spread until yolks cover bottom of skillet. Cook about 30 seconds, then flip and cook 30 seconds more. Remove from skillet. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to skillet. When hot, add egg whites and spread until whites cover bottom of skillet. Cook about 30 seconds, then flip and cook 30 seconds more. Remove from skillet.

* Cut fried egg yolk and egg whites into thin strips.

8 servings. Each serving: 330 calories; 580 mg sodium; 164 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 2.25 grams fiber.

Mung Bean Pancakes (Bindae Ttok)

Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 13 hours * Low-Fat * Vegetarian-Adaptable

Puree the mung beans just before adding them to the vegetables. If they are pureed too early, they will lose their color and flavor.

1/2 pound hulled mung beans

1/2 bunch green onions, including green tops, cut into 1-inch pieces

1/2 pound bean sprouts

1 onion, diced fine

3/4 cups kimchi, chopped

1/2 pound cooked shrimp or other seafood, optional

1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced

1 cup rice flour

Oil

Silgocho or shredded dried red chile, optional

* Soak mung beans in water to cover 12 to 24 hours.

* Combine green onions, bean sprouts, onion and kimchi in large bowl. Add shrimp and mushrooms, mixing carefully to avoid breaking sprouts.

* Drain mung beans. Puree 2/3 cup beans and 1 cup fresh water at a time in blender. Repeat until all beans have been pureed. Pour puree over mixed vegetables. Gradually sprinkle on rice flour and mix well.

* Heat 1 tablespoon oil in skillet over medium heat. Ladle batter in 4-inch circles into skillet. Cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Garnish with shredded red chile and serve.

40 pancakes. Each pancake: 45 calories; 31 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.45 gram fiber.

Braised Korean Short Ribs (Galbi Tchim)

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 40 minutes

10 black mushrooms

1/2 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon pepper

1 head garlic, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1/3 cup red wine

4 pounds beef short ribs, well-trimmed and ribs separated

Vegetable oil

1 cup beef broth

1 large onion, cut into 1-inch dice

2 large carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 red bell peppers, cut into 1-inch dice

1 bunch green onions, including green tops, sliced into 1-inch pieces

1 pear, peeled and grated

1 dozen chestnuts, peeled

1 dozen dried red dates, optional

Silgochu or shredded dried red chile, optional

Sesame seeds, optional

* Soak mushrooms in water to cover at least 1 hour or overnight.

* Combine soy sauce, brown sugar, pepper, garlic, sesame oil and wine. Pour over ribs and marinate 1 hour.

* Drain mushrooms and slice in half. Set aside in bowl.

* Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil in Dutch oven and cook ribs until browned, about 15 minutes. Add beef broth and simmer, covered, 1 hour, adding water as needed to prevent meat from sticking to pan. Stir in onion and carrots and simmer, covered, until tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in mushrooms, bell peppers, green onions, pear, chestnuts and dates, if using, and simmer 5 minutes more.

* Garnish with shredded red chile and sesame seeds.

8 servings. Each serving: 199 calories; 402 mg sodium; 40 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.98 gram fiber.