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Plants

Beyond the Zone

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

There are few moments when Southern California gardeners have nothing to say about a plant. A perfect example of our rare reticence is when the subject of peonies pops up. This quintessential perennial might be a common topic in colder climes, but it remains a reminder that we can’t have it all.

Or so we thought.

Dane Proctor has been quietly growing herbaceous peonies in Orange for more than 12 years.

It’s not that Proctor didn’t want anyone to know; it’s just that, until now, no one had asked.

Proctor fits the classic garden-putterer profile. A retired chemist with an additional two-year apprenticeship at Kew Gardens in England, Proctor grows what pleases him. And his irrepressible need to know leaves no room in his garden for predictable plants.

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He gets his horticultural kicks by pushing the zone recommendations of native Trilliums, Hellebore species from around the world and seemingly-impossible-to-grow peonies.

Growing peonies here, says Proctor casually, “is easy. Just leave them alone to do their own thing.”

Planting them, on the other hand, is tricky.

“Forget everything you’ve learned about growing peonies in other places. With a few new tricks, Paeonia lactifloras not only thrive, but flourish [here].”

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Proctor has discovered the best bets for Southern California are herbaceous Paeonia lactiflora in either single or double flowers.

A hybrid--an Orange County first--developed by Proctor has been patented and named ‘Ted Mayeda’ after the owner of M&M; Nursery in Orange. ‘Ted Mayeda’ is a single-petaled, clear red peony with a large yellow pompom center.

Proctor has also propagated peonies acclimated to Orange County’s climate. He has 5-year-old divisions of pink ‘Bowl of Beauty,’ white and rose-colored ‘Festiva Maxima,’ double red ‘Rosenfeld’ and fluffy ‘Sarah Bernhardt.’

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Peonies bloom early, between January and March, before slipping into summer dormancy. After leaves turn brown, remove them. In November, you’ll notice new, red growth buds on exposed roots. The cycle begins again.

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Proctor offers these tips for growing peonies:

* Think permanent. Peonies live for centuries and bloom best when undisturbed. Choose a location away from the root competition of trees and shrubs, and steer clear of sites that reflect heat from walks and walls.

In cooler regions, these classic cottage perennials prefer full sun--an east-facing position provides afternoon shade and protects leaves from our harshest rays.

* Prepare the soil. Peonies thrive in ordinary, fast-draining soils. But remember: They’ll be in the same spot for a long time. Give them a good start by digging a 2-foot-wide-by-18-inch deep hole and incorporate generous amounts of compost.

Then check the pH--it should be at a neutral 7.0.

Peonies prefer consistently moist soil. In summer, add a 2-inch layer of mulch to keep roots cool and moist. Remove this summer protection before cool weather sets in to again expose the buds to cold.

Proctor recommends one 3-ounce feeding each spring of Peony Persuasion (free with purchase), a high-bloom formula he developed for his plants. It’s available at M&M; Nursery.

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* Depth is critical. Healthy herbaceous peonies have plump roots that are 1-inch in diameter with at least four to five red growth buds called eyes.

The key to success in Southern California is to plant the crown at the soil surface with the eyes exposed to the elements. Setting plants high exposes the growth buds to winter chill that is crucial in developing next season’s blooms.

* Herbaceous peonies are also known to flop at flowering time. Set peony stakes out early, before green growth appears.

M&M; Nursery, 380 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, CA 92867. (714) 538-8042.

Marte Ross & Co., P.O. Box 1517, Palo Alto, CA 94302. (650) 328-5109. Free catalog.

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