Flimsy Suit Lining Is the Pits

Dear Fashion Police: Recently I’ve noticed the lining at the armpit seams of many of my good suit jackets has begun to fall apart. This is not just a seam separating but a shredding of the lining under the armpit. These are not inexpensive suits with cheap linings. When I went to my tailor to have a new lining put in one of the jackets, she said it could be the chemicals my dry cleaner uses. Someone else suggested that deodorants could cause a reaction when I wear them with sleeveless tops. Any answers? Just for the record, I don’t have any perspiration problems.

--NO SWEAT

Dear Sweat: We turned to Felicia Johnson, who works in the alterations department at Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills. She said the dry cleaning chemicals and your deodorant could both be the culprits.

Part of the problem also may lie with the kind of fabric with which your jackets are lined. Even expensive jackets can be lined with an inexpensive acetate, which, Johnson said, may not stand up to harsh conditions as well as silk can.

Your best bet to preserve your lining is with dress shields, Johnson said. If you’ve never heard of them, they were popular decades ago when people took really good care of their clothes. The shields are two little crescent-shaped pieces of fabric that are lightly padded and attach to the lining at the underarm seam. They can be sewn or snapped in.

You may be able to find shields at fabric stores, or ask your tailor (who can cover them with a fabric similar to your lining, so you won’t see two weird white things when you take your jacket off).

Johnson also offered these tips on caring for your good jackets: Don’t dry clean them more than once a month. If you do get a spot, treat it with very mild soap. But first hang the jacket in the bathroom while you take a shower; the steam will loosen the fibers and make the spot easier to clean.

Also, make sure your jackets aren’t too tight around the armholes. That can put a lot of strain on the fabric and eventually weaken it.

Johnson also said that perspiration often can cause the color of lining to change, especially if it’s black or navy. (We were shocked once to find a dress lining had turned from black to fuchsia--and we don’t have a perspiration problem, either.) This is just a chemical reaction and shouldn’t affect the strength of the fabric.

When reporting or preventing a fashion crime, write to Fashion Police, Los Angeles Times, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles, CA 90053, or fax to (213) 237-0732. Submissions cannot be returned. No telephone inquiries, please.