1997 Patz & Hall Chardonnay, Napa Valley. About $27

A concentrated yet elegant Chardonnay with citrus overtones and a judicious use of oak, shying away from the overblown style that mars so many California Chardonnays. A serious white wine that will appeal to a wide range of white wine fanciers.

Available at Wine Exchange, Orange; Hi-Times Wine Cellars, Costa Mesa; Wally’s, Westwood; and Wine House, Los Angeles, among others.