British Make-Over of a Former Princess

P&O;’s 1,465-passenger Arcadia is so “veddy, veddy” British, with its whist and quoits tournaments, its Knightsbridge and Mayfair Courts shops and The Oval, a cricket-themed pub, that it’s difficult to remember it as Princess Cruises’ Star Princess.

The vessel was christened in 1989 by the late Audrey Hepburn, who was one of only a few godmothers who actually sailed aboard the ship she had just named. Star Princess had begun construction as Sitmar’s Fair Majesty, but after Sitmar was acquired by Princess’ parent company P&O; in 1988, the name and some of the ship’s design features were changed.

Observing the changes is like consulting a primer on the differences between American and British cruise ships. The casino, for instance, which once filled the entire amidships area of promenade deck, had almost half its area lopped off and turned into a huge card room called Trumps. British passengers are much less interested in gaming than Americans, but will flock to organized whist games several times a day.

The Oval is perhaps the most distinctive new area on the Arcadia, a handsome, clubby pub with leather chairs and antique cricket photos and artifacts.

Princess fans may remember that this ship first introduced what became a fleet-wide hit, the lobby area La Patisserie with its espresso, cappuccino and French pastries. But on the Arcadia, the continental accent has turned British; it’s now Tiffany’s, with tea, coffee and cakes supplemented by boxes of fancy chocolates for sale.

Nomenclature, too, is part of the new regime. Formerly called Hemingway’s, the ship’s library is now labeled simply Library, and the two-deck Starlight Show Lounge has become the Palladium, where sight lines from parts of the balcony are not very good.

P&O;’s notable attention to young travelers is reflected in the 5:15 children’s tea (supper) served in the Pacific restaurant, after which they can be checked into the supervised night nursery so that parents may dine alone.

The space formerly shared by all the children and teens on board has been relegated to younger kids for Peter Pan’s playroom, the children’s deck paddling pool and outdoor play area, and the night nursery.

The teens have been moved to Decibels, the former disco, now a teen disco and video games room deep in the bowels of the ship.

Steiner’s Oasis spa and beauty salon has always been on the same lower deck as Decibels, with steam room, saunas, gymnasium, carpeted and mirrored aerobics room and beauty salon, all of it looking hopelessly old-fashioned when compared to newer ships where spas are on upper decks with glass walls.

On the topmost Sports Deck, there’s plenty of open space with natural teak and sports deck areas and a round, glass-walled forward observation lounge and nightclub called the Horizon Lounge.

One deck down, the former Characters bar with its zany drinks has become Sundaes, specializing in ice cream, while the Italian-accented Pronto Pizzeria is now the Al Fresco Pizzeria, featuring a different pizza daily from Monday’s tuna pizza to Friday’s Hawaiian (ham and pineapple) pizza.

Two swimming pools, one with a flowing waterfall and swim-up bar, the other adjacent to four spa tubs, make this an ideal sun-and-swim cruise ship.

Overall the decor aboard is warmer, with richer, darker colors and plenty of tapestries and floral fabrics. But the most attractive feature of this ship is the same thing that initially drew us in 1989--the cabins are larger than average throughout. The standard outside and inside doubles measure 188 square feet, and all cabins have a sitting area with sofa or chair, a built-in desk/dresser and a mini-refrigerator.

The meals aboard range from full English breakfasts in both the Pacific dining room and the Conservatory buffet to dinners with five main-dish choices supplemented by three appetizers, two soups and six desserts, followed by cheese and fruit.

Very large suites and mini-suites with private verandas provide plenty of lounging and wardrobe space for a full world cruise, which, of course, the 63,500-ton Arcadia and P&O;’s other big ship, the 69,000-ton, 1,806-passenger Oriana, offer every winter from Southampton. In 1999, the Arcadia is traveling westbound, the Oriana eastbound.

To get more information about the Arcadia and P&O; Cruises, call (800) PRINCESS.