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The Bean Season

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

As the weather warms up, the price of green beans comes down, and they gain a more prominent place in our menus. Because they cook in just a few minutes, green beans are invaluable to the busy cook.

I love green beans prepared by a Mediterranean and Middle Eastern formula, slowly simmered in tomato sauce. The sauce complements the beans beautifully.

I’ve discovered that I can get the same delicious results faster by using a different technique. I boil the beans briefly in water, then heat them for a minute or two with diced tomatoes and herbs or spices, such as cilantro, thyme, allspice or cumin. The flavorful sauce has a fresher tomato taste than the traditional version, and the briefly cooked beans stay bright green instead of turning grayish.

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This hearty dish is a tasty accompaniment for grilled chicken or fish. It also makes a great vegetarian main course when served with rice or pasta.

You can replace the tomatoes with diced roasted peppers and add chopped garlic to the beans, making a savory, colorful side dish that is popular in Spain.

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Here are some bean basics:

* Some green beans are flat; others are round. I have found that the round ones usually cook faster and are more tender. In the market, they may be mixed together; choose one kind for uniform cooking.

* Select beans that are crisp and free of brown spots. You can keep them in a plastic food bag in the refrigerator for three to four days. Do not rinse them until you’re ready to cook them.

* To cook beans quickly, first put a pot of water on to boil, using enough so the beans can swim around easily. It might seem time-consuming to boil so much water, but the beans will cook faster and have a more vivid color.

* While the water is coming to a boil, rinse the beans and break off their ends. Break each bean in two or three pieces or, for an attractive presentation, leave them whole. Allow an extra minute to cook whole beans.

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* Boil the beans four to five minutes, then remove one and taste it. The bean should be tender but not completely soft so there is a hint of crispness in its texture.

* Remember, the longer the beans keep hot in the water, the softer they become and the more their color fades. If you’re cooking them ahead, rinse them with cold water as soon as they’re done to keep the beans green and prevent further softening.

* Green beans are also called snap beans because the pods of fresh beans should snap when you bend them. They used to be called string beans because in older varieties a tough, stringy fiber, which had to be removed, ran the length of the pod, but the beans commonly available in the store do not have these strings.

* When yellow beans, called “wax beans,” are available, I like to mix both for a colorful dish.

Green Beans With Tomatoes and Thyme

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes

This dish is quick, delicious and low in fat. Only half a teaspoon of oil per serving is needed.

1 1/2 pounds green beans, halved

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 (14-1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 teaspoon thyme

* Add beans to large saucepan of boiling salted water. Boil until crisp-tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain in colander or strainer.

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* Heat oil in same saucepan. Add tomatoes and heat over medium heat. Add beans. Season to taste with salt, pepper and thyme. Toss well over heat. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve hot.

4 servings. Each serving: 94 calories; 252 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 2.38 grams fiber.

Spanish Green Bean and Sweet Red Pepper Stew

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes

In this quick, beautiful, garlic-scented vegetable stew, the vegetables retain their vibrant colors. This is a perfect partner for grilled chicken or steak or a good accompaniment for rice or pasta. To save time, you can use bottled sweet roasted peppers.

1 pound green beans, halved

1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 red bell peppers, grilled and peeled, or 4 bottled sweet red pepper halves

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons chopped parsley, optional

* Add beans to pan of boiling, salted water. Boil 4 minutes to partially cook them. Drain in colander or strainer. Rinse under cold water and drain thoroughly. Cut grilled peppers into strips.

* Heat oil in same pan over medium heat. Add garlic and saute, stirring, about 15 seconds. Add beans, salt and pepper to taste and saute 1 minute. Add grilled peppers and 2 tablespoons water. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until beans are crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in parsley. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve hot.

4 servings. Each serving:. 77 calories; 82 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 1.44 grams fiber.

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Note: To grill and peel peppers, broil peppers about 4 inches from flame until skins are blistered and charred, 15 to 25 minutes, turning every 4 to 5 minutes with tongs so another side faces flame. Transfer peppers to bowl and cover or place in plastic food bag and close bag. Let stand 10 minutes. Peel peppers using paring knife. Halve peppers but be careful; they may have hot juice inside. Discard seeds and ribs. Do not rinse. Pat dry.

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