Itinerary: Underground Hollywood

We all know the story about how L.A. used to have trains. In the first half of the century, Pacific Electric Railway Co. ran Red Cars along 1,000 miles of rail connecting downtown, Santa Monica, the San Gabriel and San Fernando valleys--and even out to Riverside.

The Red Cars were destroyed by a dummy corporation--created by car, oil and tire interests--that bought up and dismantled mass transit lines throughout the country. But Angelenos had left the Red Cars vulnerable by abandoning them for automobiles.

Now L.A. has a Red Line that recalls in a small way--11.6 miles--the Red Car days. This weekend the Metropolitan Transportation Authority opens five stations on the Red Line, connecting Union Station in downtown L.A. to Hollywood. Saturday and Sunday, passengers ride free.

Vermont/Beverly

At this first new station, giant boulders come through the walls--as designed by artist George Stone. While there’s not much right outside this station (a gas station, pawn shop), this is a good place to hop a bus. Two miles west on the Beverly bus line (No. 14) is Larchmont Village. It’s one of the city’s shopping districts that has resisted Gapification for the most part.

Vermont/Santa Monica

This is the stop designed to serve L.A. City College and the Braille Institute. Notice the bright yellow pads on the train platform? They’re designed to help the vision-impaired know where the doors will open. Artist Robert Millar has the students emerge from underground through a field of questions painted on the walls setting the tone for academic inquiry.

Vermont/Sunset

If it’s this Saturday, you’ll know you’ve reached the Vermont / Sunset station by the “Star Trek” music. Neil Norman and his Cosmic Orchestra will play from noon to 3 p.m. But even if you miss the music, the outer space feel will clue you in. The blue marble, polished steel and stylish lighting could be right off a “Voyager” holodeck.

Walk north along Vermont Avenue into Los Feliz Village, another chain-store-free shopping zone. Check out the oddball gift items at Y-Que or Wacko. Find new clothes at Monah-Li or Sinister Store, or vintage duds at Ozzie Dots or Squaresville.

Prefer high art to high fashion? Barnsdall Art Park is just to the west. Take a tour of the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Hollyhock House or check out Los Angeles Municipal Gallery.

Hollywood/Western

This station is all about linking the past and future, starting with the design, which incorporates pictures of fossils and bones found while digging the subway tunnel.

Outside, past and future converge too. The historic Louis B. Mayer building across Western Avenue is being renovated. Across Hollywood Boulevard, a giant hole will be filled by a new grocery store.

A short walk to the east is a quick lesson in immigration. You’ll pass Thailand Plaza, a mini-mall called Little Paris, plus shops with signs in Spanish, English and Armenian. To the west, at the corner of Gramercy Place, a newly renovated building holds the charming Espresso Mi Cultura Books and Coffee and Stan’s Antiques. Walk north to the western end of Griffith Park, or hop bus No. 203 to go straight to the observatory.

Hollywood/Vine

Follow the Walk of Fame to the Pantages, Doolittle or Henry Fonda theaters. Or, for a movie, it’s a few blocks to the CineramaDome on Sunset Boulevard--or a bit farther down Hollywood Boulevard to the Egyptian Theater, the El Capitan or Mann’s Chinese Theatre. There’s still a lot of wig shops and beeper stores in Hollywood--but there’s also enough change to make you believe gentrification is possible.

If you’ve chosen Sunday morning for your Red Line excursion, you’re in luck. A short walk to Ivar Avenue and you’re at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market. Anything you want--from plants and flowers to dried fruit, fresh fish to goat cheese--is there for the buying and eating.