Hands Up

Fifty years ago, we had an understanding about high-class food. It meant Caesar salad, steak smothered in onions, baked Alaska. We’d heard of meals involving pheasants and truffles and wine, but they brutally intimidated us until Julia Child triggered the foodie revolution.

Then, in 1982, a funny thing happened: Los Angeles restaurateur Wolfgang Puck elevated the humble pizza to cuisine status. Next thing we knew, chefs were calling toast “grilled peasant bread” and charging $8 for a bowl of “kick-ass” chili. What’s long overdue for a social promotion? Iceberg lettuce. Watch for it.