Picnic Wines? Hold the Fireworks

In my sleepy part of suburbia, we have a Fourth of July parade of great significance--if you are in the local Boy Scout troop or are an insurance agent, because they and the local politicians and social clubs are all that seem to turn out for our parade now that the local military base has been closed down. Still, we all show up at 11 a.m. to watch the assorted hand-wavers and out-of-tune bands strut their stuff before we head off to our block party barbecue. If the truth be told, we would just as soon forget the parade and get on with the party, but it is the Fourth of July, and so the parade has been forever, and remains today, the start of the festivities.

Now, it will not surprise you to learn that the Olken contribution to the block party is the wine. In fact, I insist that it be my contribution because that is how I guarantee that I will like what I drink with my neighbors. And, as I sit here contemplating what to choose for this year’s event, it has occurred to me that you too might be wondering what to serve a few days hence. I like to bring out sturdy reds and fruity whites, along with a couple of easy-drinking reds of the type my wife likes. Herewith, then, is a selection of wines that are likely to make their appearance at our Fourth of July cookout.

RED WINES

With the menu running to barbecued meats of all kinds, from bratwurst to smoked pork chops to petite filets, I tend to favor fairly substantial red wines. But recognizing that this is not a sit-down dinner and that we are serving the neighbors, not the local gastronomic society, we also try to make sure that the wines are either open and friendly in style or weighty and deep. The Fourth is not a time for elegance or refinement.

$ ** 1996 Marietta Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, $18--Sweet and fairly deep in aroma with its black cherry fruit pushed by high levels of ripeness, this medium-full-bodied tannic wine has a fleshy texture, slightly jammy flavors and a bit more weight and roundness on the palate than the typical Cabernet. In a world where Cabernet Sauvignon is generally prized for refinement and ageworthiness, this rustic, intense wine is geared to provide plenty of pleasure in the near term with the likes of hearty steaks and chops of the type we will be attacking come Sunday.

$ * 1997 R. H. Phillips Vineyard Syrah “EXP,” Dunnigan Hills, $14--Here is a wine that meets all of the qualifications for our friendly band. It is tasty. It is fruity. It is relatively full-bodied and open without the strong tannins that often accompany young red wines. It has a nice bit of ripe blackberry fruitiness and is sweetened by oak. Few wines will match its size, openness, price-worthiness and ability to match up to the most savory of meats coming off the Weber.

$ * 1997 Qupe Syrah, Central Coast, $14--Maybe a bit lighter in overall style than the Phillips “EXP,” this Syrah smells and tastes of ripe plums and berries with just a hint of evergreen in the mix. It is well-balanced and lengthy, and invites drinking now.

$ * 1996 Fetzer Vineyards Merlot “Barrel Select,” North Coast, $14--Here is one of our favorite house reds, according to the Mrs. Olken “slurpy” scale. Moderately priced, supple in feel, pleasantly cherryish and ready to drink now, this one also rates high on my QPR (quality-to-price ratio) scale.

$ Rosenblum Cellars Zinfandel “Vintner’s Cuvee XVIII,” $10--Always among our favorites for a not too expensive but nicely fruity, open Zinfandel, this blend from Zinfandel-specialist Rosenblum (the winery offers about 15 Zins ranging from this one at $10 up to their lovely but limited “Maggie’s Reserve” at $30) will make a repeat appearance at this year’s festivities. Ripe yet fruity, reasonably deep if not quite so concentrated as the Syrahs, it carries the Zinfandel ability to fit nicely with the sweeter meats like smoked pork chops (always a favorite hereabouts).

WHITE WINES

Outdoor events are not places for wimpy or subtle wines. Well-aged Cabernets and Pinot Noirs do not belong there. Similarly, high acid, finesseful whites are generally out of place. And since wine appreciation is not the order of the day, I tend not to serve those layered Chardonnays that do so well with elegant foods and fancy sauces. On the Fourth of July, my whites are chosen for their fresh, bright, fruity personalities.

$ * * 1997 Kenwood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County, $10--Pure, straightforward, unabashedly fruity in both nose and flavor with the distinct grassy edge of the varietal, this bright, outgoing wine will never be mistaken for complex or layered. It just tastes good and works extremely well with marinated chicken breasts or pieces of salmon. And, you can not ask for more fruit for the money.

$ * 1997 Hanna Winery Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, $16--Chardonnays, in my view, have an obligation to go beyond simple fruit, and this medium-intensity wine does just that with added extras of roasted grain and smoky oak complexities. Still, it is the wine’s pleasing core of fruit that wins the day, and were it not for a slight lack of concentration, this one would have earned a second star. But do not let that deter you. This is an uncommonly pleasant and rich Chardonnay at the price.

$ * 1997 Canoe Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12.50--Frankly, this wine is worth a lot more because of its precise Chardonnay fruit and supporting oaky richness. Were it not in somewhat limited supply, it would be our easy first choice as a wine that would please almost every white wine drinker.

* 1997 Byron Vineyard & Winery Pinot Gris, Santa Maria Valley, $16--A variety that is relatively new to our wine scene but that has long existed in France’s Alsace as Pinot Gris and in Northern Italy as Pinot Grigio, it makes wines that surprise and delight with their forward, fruity personalities. This wine is as fresh and fruity as they come with flavors that hint at plums and limes, and with a somewhat full but lively feel on the palate. Our neighbors now ask for the Pinot Gris because they have discovered what fun it is to drink.

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Tasting Notes is based on tastings conducted by Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine, a monthly newsletter devoted to the critical review of California and West Coast wines. Readers of The Times may obtain a sample copy by sending their name and address to: CGCW, P.O. Box V, Alameda, CA 94501, by calling or faxing (510) 865-3150 or by e-mailing CGCW@aol.com.

DEFINITION OF SYMBOLS:

*** A world-class wine, superb by any measure, the top 1% to 2% of all wines tasted.

** An exceptional wine, well worth the effort to find, 10% to 12% of wines tasted.

* An admirable wine, tasty, focused, attractive, about 25% of wines tasted.

No rating: The best are quite pleasant and can be good buys when moderately priced.

$ Good value for the money.

X Below average quality, to be avoided.