The Big Dippers

Bread is the most traditional dip for cheese fondue. Potatoes are a logical and acceptable substitution, according to the Swiss, because the tubers would be plentiful in the mountains where fondue originated, perhaps even more than bread in a long snowy winter.

Vegetable dippers are making an appearance as the Swiss become more diet-conscious. Cornichons and pickled onions are always served.

Silverton’s and Wilson’s vegetable dippers were a natural extension of the Swiss sensibility and a sophisticated spin on the raw vegetable platters of last generation: grilled skewered potatoes with bay leaves, grilled mushrooms and asparagus, roasted cherry tomatoes and garlic cloves, and radicchio caramelized with balsamic vinegar. Among their condiments were marinated olives, salted toasted almonds, thin slices of dried sausages, cornichons and easy homemade pickled onions. Of course, there were baskets full of cubed breads.

Pick and choose as many or as few dippers and condiments as you’d like for your own party. There should be a balance of piquant, salty and spicy flavors. When cooking vegetables to use as dippers, be sure they remain somewhat firm so they won’t fall off the fondue fork and into the pot. Vegetables may be steamed, grilled or roasted.

What follows are a few of the methods used by Silverton and Wilson.

Almonds: Toss whole with olive oil and coarse salt. Toast at 350 degrees 5 to 10 minutes. Allow to cool before checking for doneness.

Asparagus: Place several sprigs of fresh thyme in roasting pan and lay asparagus 2 or 3 deep on the herbs. Add more thyme sprigs and tuck in a few bay leaves. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with coarse salt and roast at 425 degrees 15 to 20 minutes.

Potatoes: Scrub but do not peel new, rose or Yukon gold potatoes. Roast, steam or boil potatoes until done. When cool, cut in quarters or halves to make generous bite-size pieces, toss with olive oil, coarse salt and freshly ground pepper. Thread potatoes and fresh bay leaves onto skewers, and grill briefly over hot coals, turning to brown evenly.

Radicchio: Cut 2 heads of radicchio into thin wedges. In large skillet, whisk together 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and coarse salt to taste, then warm over low heat. Layer in wedges of radicchio in overlapping spiral. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar, additional salt and the leaves from 2 branches of rosemary. Cover skillet and pan-roast until radicchio is tender, about 10 minutes. Remove cover and continue cooking until radicchio is browned and caramelized. Turn and brown other side. May be served hot or at room temperature.